Critical Spring Temperatures for Frost Damage

Early spring is the time of the year when apple trees are beginning to wake up from their winter sleep, and is also the time for colder night temperatures that we are sure to see. It's always a good idea to revisit the critical temperatures that can cause frost or freeze damage to fruit trees, specifically apple trees.  We are currently at silver tip to green tip here in northern Illinois with a forecast of night temperatures in the low 20's later in the week. Fortunately, our trees haven't progressed to far this spring, but we could see green tip next week.   This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and and is dropping our temperatures the first few days of April.  The early warm temperatures accelerated bud swell, and the lower temperatures that are anticipated present the threat of frost or freeze damage to new green tip leaf tissue.  It seems that each spring since about 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost or freeze damage with our fruit trees. 

Dark brown centers and signed appearance of the petals
indicate that both king and side blooms were killed in a
freeze the morning this picture was taken.  (Photo credit:
Mark Longstroth, MSU Extension)

As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged.  As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. Freezing temperatures of 28 degrees F. will result in about a 10 percent loss and 24 F will result in a 90 percent loss, as indicated by the charts down below.

The dark brown center of this apple flower  indicates it was
killed by a freeze. (Photo credit: Mark Longstroth, MSU Extension)

In a radiation freeze with clear, calm conditions, fruit at higher elevations or in the tops of trees will be less damaged than those at lower elevations, since colder air is more dense than warmer air and sinks to ground level, pushing the warmer air up. The percent of flowers killed in a frost may or may not relate directly to lost yield later in the season. With large-fruited fruits such as apples, peaches, plums and pears, the loss of 50 percent of the flower may not be devastating since we may only want a small percentage of the flowers to become fruit, meaning that fruit thinning may be totally unnecessary.  So the stage of bud and bloom development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur.  For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below.

(Click on the photos to download the chart in PDF format.)

 

Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring a spring frost could still be possible.  Once the fruit has set, then the critical temperatures that can damage the fruit become lower.   We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at over the next weeks and their susceptibility to possible freeze injury.

If we continue in a spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster, pink and bloom, the critical temperature rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time, which is the most critical time to get frost damage.   

 

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Revisiting the Critical Temperatures for Freeze Damage to Fruit Trees

It's time once again to revisit the critical temperatures that can cause frost damage to fruit trees, specifically apple trees.  We are currently at tight cluster to pink here in northern Illinois with a weekend that gave us temperatures in the upper 20's and about 6" of snow. Fortunately, our lowest recorded temperature was 28.7 degrees, 7/10 of a degree above the damage lever!   This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and early April and dropped our temperatures in late April to way below normal.  The early warm temperatures accelerated leaf tissue growth, and the lower temperatures that are anticipated present the threat of frost during bloom.  It seems that each spring since 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost damage with our fruit trees.

Dark brown centers and signed appearance of the petals
indicate that both king and side blooms were killed in a
freeze the morning this picture was taken.  (Photo credit:
Mark Longstroth, MSU Extension)

As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged.  As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. Freezing temperatures of 28 degrees F. will result in about a 10 percent loss and 24 F will result in a 90 percent loss, as indicated by the charts down below.

The dark brown center of this apple flower  indicates it was
killed by a freeze. (Photo credit: Mark Longstroth, MSU Extension)

In a radiation freeze with clear, calm conditions, fruit at higher elevations or in the tops of trees will be less damaged than those at lower elevations, since colder air is more dense than warmer air and sinks to ground level, pushing the warmer air up. The percent of flowers killed in a frost may or may not relate directly to lost yield later in the season. With large-fruited fruits such as apples, peaches, plums and pears, the loss of 50 percent of the flower may not be devastating since we may only want a small percentage of the flowers to become fruit, meaning that fruit thinning may be totally unnecessary.  So the stage of bud and bloom development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur.  For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below.

(Click on the photos to download the chart in PDF format.)

 

Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring a spring frost could still be possible.  Once the fruit has set, then the critical temperatures that can damage the fruit become lower.   We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at over the next weeks and their susceptibility to possible freeze injury.

If we continue in this spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster, pink and bloom, the critical temperature rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time, which is where we are now.  

Spring Finally Arrived and It's Spray Time

It's time to apply a dormant/silver tip oil and copper spray for your fruit trees! The apple trees are at silver tip in the orchard here at Royal Oak Farm Orchard in northern Illinois and that is a sure sign that spring has arrived!! It also indicates that just as soon as the nights stay above freezing, it will be time to do a dormant/silver tip oil and copper spray. The oil (mineral oil) is sprayed for mites, scale and aphids because spring is the time to cover those eggs at the base of the buds before they begin to hatch.  The oil smothers the eggs and they suffocate before hatching.  Below you can see aphid eggs that were laid last fall.

Copper is also sprayed at this time for control of fire blight and to aid in the suppression of apple scab pathogens, both being severe diseases that can destroy a crop as well as the trees. We also have to be aware of the spring critical temperatures as the buds progress in development. Each spring I post the spring critical temperatures chart from Utah State to help you determine at what stage your fruit trees may be at as spring progresses.

Ever wonder how the fruit trees know when it's time to come out of dormancy? Well, the trees won't come out of dormancy until they have endured a certain amount of time with temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the number of chill hours they need is achieved and temperatures warm in the spring, the trees come out of dormancy and resume their normal growth. The number of hours required at cooler temperatures is known as the chill requirement or chill hours. As of this afternoon we had accumulated approx. 751 chill hours from October 1 of last fall. Most apple varieties require 400-1000 chill hours, so most of the trees in our area have met their requirement and will come out of dormancy just as soon as temperatures warm. Growth resumption can be predicted by tracking what we call growth units. Growth units are the number of degree hours above 41 F. For example, if the temperature averages 51 F for and hour, then 10 degree units are accumulated. Bud break initiates after approx 3710 F growth units accumulate, and progresses depending on the temperature. We do our dormant oil and copper spray generally around April 10. The best time to spray is at silver tip....when the buds have that silvery/gray tinted fuzz on them. You can use the chart below to determine the growth stage your trees may be at.

As I mentioned earlier, now is the time to do our fire blight copper spray and our horticultural oil spray.  We want to get the copper on the trees before they reach full 1/4” green and the horticultural oil can be sprayed at the same time in a tank mix or done as a dormant, silver tip,green tip, or 1/4” green spray.  In other words, your oil can be sprayed at any time from silver tip through 1/4” green providing you are using a mineral oil based product such as Superior Oil 70sec or an off the shelf Horticultural Oil such as Bonide’s All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil.  Your copper spray should be done before the trees reach 1/4” green to avoid any phytotoxicity issues.  For your copper spray you can also use an off the shelf brand such as Bonide Copper Fungicide RTU (Ready to Use). Since the Bonide Copper Fungicide contains Copper Octanoate (Copper Soap), it is safer to use on your trees than heavier metallic copper compounds that could have phytotoxicity issues after trees have green tipped. Both of these products should be available at your local hardware store or garden center of from Amazon.com.  We also have supplies at our Nursery at Royal Oak Farm Orchard.

A dormant oil and copper spray should not be done until we get at least a 24 hour period that is above freezing at night. The oil cannot freeze on the trees, but it pretty much dries within about 24 hours. Once dry, there is no chance of it freezing.  We usually get at least one 24 hour period above freezing at night before the trees get to 1/4" green. 

This “window of opportunity” for dormant sprays for fruit trees depends on the bud stage of your target fruit tree. You can follow these guidelines:

Apples: swollen bud to 1/4” green
Pears: swollen bud to cluster bud
Peaches/Nectarines: swollen bud to pre-bloom
Apricot: before bloom

When applying, spray trees just until they are dripping to get good application on all the stems and crevices at the buds. If you are using horticultural oil alone, use a rate of 2% (mixed in water) for best results or follow your chosen product’s label rate.  For situations where aphids have been real problems in the past, consider adding an insecticide (such as acetamiprid, etc.) to 1.5 - 2% oil or use one of the Bonide RTU (ready to use) pre-mixes for insect pests.

Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage on Fruit Trees

It's time once again to revisit the critical temperatures that can cause frost damage to fruit trees, specifically apple trees.  We are currently at full bloom here in northern Illinois with a frost advisory forecast for tonight.  This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and early April and dropped our temperatures in late April to below normal.  The early warm temperatures accelerated tight cluster on into bloom and now at full bloom the lower temperatures are effecting pollination and the threat of frost during bloom.  It seems that each spring since 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost damage with our fruit trees.
 

Dark brown centers and signed appearance of the petals
indicate that both king and side blooms were killed in a
freeze the morning this picture was taken.  (Photo credit:
Mark Longstroth, MSU Extension)

As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged.  As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. Freezing temperatures of 28 degrees F. will result in about a 10 percent loss and 24 F in a 90 percent loss, as indicated by the charts below.

The dark brown center of this apple flower  indicates it was
killed by a freeze. (Photo credit: Mark Longstroth, MSU Extension)

 In a radiation freeze with clear, calm conditions, fruit at higher elevations or in the tops of trees will be less damaged than those at lower elevations, since colder air is more dense than warmer air and sinks to ground level, pushing the warmer air up. The percent of flowers killed in a frost may or may not relate directly to lost yield later in the season. With large-fruited fruits such as apples, peaches, plums and pears, the loss of 50 percent of the flower may not be devastating since we may only want a small percentage of the flowers to become fruit, meaning that fruit thinning may be totally unnecessary.  So the stage of bud and bloom development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur.  For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below.

 

Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring a spring frost could be possible.  Once the fruit has set, then the critical temperatures that can damage the fruit become lower.   We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at over the next weeks and their susceptibility to possible freeze injury.

If we continue in this spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster, pink and bloom, the critical temperature rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time, which is where we are now.  

Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage on Fruit Trees

This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and lowered early April temperatures to below normal.  It seems that each spring since 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost damage with our fruit trees.  

As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged.  As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. So the stage of bud development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur.  For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below. 

 

 

Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring, and the fact that we have gotten snow as late as mid April, a spring frost could be possible within the next few weeks.  We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at and their susceptibility to freeze injury. If we continue in this spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster and pink, the critical temperature rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time.