Japanese Beetle Emergence

Figure 1.

Japanese Beetle emergence has begun here in Northern Illinois.  I noticed the first beetles on Monday and today they were in full view on our Honeycrisp trees (Figure 1).  Due to the large amount of carbohydrates produced by the Honeycrisp trees, which is what makes the variety so sweet, the Japanese Beetle is seemingly attracted to it just like we are!  Honeycrisp seem to be the first leaves that attract them and then they move on to raspberries and several other berry varieties.  

 Monitoring for Japanese Beetle

Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the soil and live from 30 to 45 days feeding on plants over a four-to-six-week period.  The adults produce aggregation pheromones that attract individuals (both males and females) to the same feeding location. Adults can fly up to five miles to locate a feeding site; however, they tend to fly only short distances to feed and lay eggs.   The adult beetles normally emerge during the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out that suitable food , like Honeycrisp, and begin to feed. These early arrivals then begin to release that aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults. Newly emerged females also release a sex pheromone that attracts males. After feeding and mating for a day or two, the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females lay 1 to 5 eggs before returning to plants to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. Most of the eggs are laid by mid-August though adults may be found until the first frost. The eggs hatch in 8 to 14 days and the first instar larvae dig to the soil surface to feed on roots and organic material. The first instars shed their skin (molt) in 17 to 25 days. The second instars take 18 to 45 days to mature and molt again. Most of the grubs are in the third instar by late September and by October they dig deeper into the soil to overwinter. The grubs return to thesurface in the spring as the soil temperature warms, usually in mid-April. The grubs continue their development and form a pupa in an earthen cell 1 to 3 inches in the soil. 

Figure 2.

When you see those first few beetles, that is the time to begin you plan of attack.  Those first few beetles are the food source scouts that will emit the aggregation pheromone letting other beetles know that a feast is on! The Japanese beetle adults feed through the upper leaf surface (epidermis) and leaf center (mesophyll), leaving the lower epidermis intact. Adults usually avoid feeding on tissue between leaf veins, resulting in leaves appearing lace-like or skeletonized (Figure 2). Controlling those first few beetles can give you a head start on stopping the feeding/mating cycle.

 Control for Japanese Beetle

There are some control options for the adult life stage One is physical removal and/or trapping of adults:  Removing beetles by hand, or trapping, may provide adequate protection  for  small plantings  when  beetle  numbers are low.  However, Japanese  beetle  adults  are capable  of  migrating  from  other  areas,  and  the presence  of  beetles  on  or  near  a  plant  will  attract more   beetles.  Consequently,   use   of   Japanese beetle traps often attracts more beetles, and results in subsequent damage to plants. 

Figure 3.

The other alternative is chemical control of adults:  Several insecticides are labeled  for  use  against  adult  Japanese  beetles.  Always  follow  label  directions.    Treat  foliage  and flowers thoroughly.  For optimal control, apply in the late afternoon when beetles are most active. Several insecticides can be used for apple maggot control including those used for codling moth and apple maggot control like acetmaprid.  There are others like Sevin, but I do not recommend the use of Sevin since it is toxic to bees and to beneficial insects.   Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Figure 3).  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. 

 
If you do choose to use chemical controls make sure that the plant you are applying to is listed on the label as well as Japanese Beetles. If controlling Japanese Beetles on food crops such brambles or apples – make sure to follow the harvest-restriction date on the label. Always READ and FOLLOW the label and do not apply at rates higher than listed.

This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these  recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned.  The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.

Time to Start Monitoring for Apple Maggot

Fig. 1

Last season we trapped the first apple maggot fly on June 30. at about 1150 Degree Days from March 1.  We are at 985 DD as of today at 6:38 PM, so it is time to get out the  apple maggot traps  and get them set.  It only takes one trapped fly to  determine that they have arrived to the orchard!  The apple maggot (AM) is native to the Midwestern US and is considered a primary pest, along with plum curculio (PC), and codling moth (CM), which have been covered in previous posts. The adult apple maggot fly resembles a small housefly in size, with a black body, eyes of dark red, with the thorax and abdomen having distinctive white or cream colored bands. The AM is distinguished from other similar, and closely related flies, like cherry fruit fly and black cherry fruit fly, by the variation in dark banding on its wings (See Fig. 1).  

Fig. 2

The AM overwinters in the pupal stage in soil. As soil temperatures rise in early spring, development of pupae commences.  The adult fly first emergence begins shortly thereafter (early summer, mid to late June in upper Illinois). A feeding and mating period (pre-oviposition) of approximately 7-10 days is followed by egg laying directly under the skin of the apple. Females may deposit eggs over an approximate 30 day period laying as many as 300-500 eggs.

Fig. 3

Egg-laying punctures cause dimples and distortion in the outer flesh of fruits. These punctures appear as pinpricks on the fruit surface. Larvae tunnel throughout the fruit leaving irregular trails.(Fig. 2) As eggs hatch, larvae funnel through fruit flesh leaving a winding brown trail.(Fig. 3)  Egg laying usually ceases in early to late August; however, it may continue longer if drought conditions exist throughout August.

Monitoring For Apple Maggot

Fig. 4

When monitoring for AM, the apple maggot fly tends to show a preference for golden delicious varieties, but no variety is immune from attack.  Sticky red spheres are effective monitoring devices for adult AM flies (Fig. 4). Females are attracted to the sphere for mating and egg laying activities and are trapped by the sticky coating. Hang traps shortly before expected adult emergence (mid to late June in upper Illinois). First emergence may be detected by checking traps daily until the first fly is spotted on the trap.

Hang the sphere in the proximity to fruit at eye level on the perimeter of the south or southeast side of the tree. Attach the ball in a sturdy stem about 1 foot above a fruit cluster of approximately 6-10, cleaning out the foliage and other fruit for at least 18 inches to sides and top of the trap so it is easily visible. The spheres attract the insects that come within a few yards of them; therefore, capture of ONE AM on any one trap at a time would indicate the need for an immediate control application. Once the pesticide is applied, AM captures are disregarded for the period during which the protective spray is effective (varies according to pesticide used).

Control for Apple Maggot

Fig 5.

Several insecticides can be used for apple maggot control including those used for codling moth control like acetmaprid and/or spinosad.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Fig. 5).  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects.  Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

Fig. 6

An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew (Fig. 6).  Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.

As always, be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets and guides  which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43071/apple-maggot-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/apple-maggot

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ID/ID-146-W.pdf

Reference in this blog to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm, Inc.   People using such products assume responsibility for their use in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.
 

Rainy Weather Means Apple Scab and More Apple Scab

This 2018 growing season thus far is proving to be one of the more severe apple scab seasons.  As of today, June 19, we have had eight apple scab infection periods and have had several of those infection periods last for more than 36 hours and two of them lasting more than 48 hours. That has made it nearly impossible to control primary scab outbreaks.  With that being the case, we are at a point of now having to protect fruit from secondary scab.

Fig. 1

Season-long control is difficult if primary infections develop, like those in Fig. 1, which produce secondary inoculum placing fruit at risk for secondary, conidial infections.   With primary ascospores possibly depleted, we will have to continue to monitor scab infection events and maintain spray coverage accordingly for at least two more weeks, if not longer, since we have found primary lesions, like those in Fig. 2 on McIntosh and McIntosh hybrids like Cortland and Empire.  If you have seen lesions like those in Fig. 2, on your trees, then you will need to protect your fruit from secondary lesions.

Fig. 2

The best product for protecting your fruit is Captan, a protectant, so that means that your trees will need to be sprayed with Captan at the full labelled rate prior to any rain event to protect your fruit.  If there are no rain events between sprays, a single protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's labeled directions.  You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event if when using only a protectant. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to keep an eradicant on hand like myclobutanil, which is available as Spectracide Immunox. A protectant like Captan has to be applied prior to a rain event.  If no protection is available during the wetting event, then only an eradicant like Immunox can be applied that has a reach back of at least 48 hours.  That means that it can still have an effect on the scab pathogen for up to 48 hours after a wetting event. A good option is to actually use both a protectant and an erdicant at the same time, like Captan mixed with Immunox, which will give you both protection and eradicant action after a wetting event. 

As always, be sure to follow the label directions on any spray product you may use.   For further information on control of apple scab, refer to:

 http://royaloakfarmorchard.blogspot.com/2018/04/apple-scab-season-approaches.html

Codling Moth Egg Hatch and NEWA

Our monitoring of codling moth (CM) continues as we approached egg hatch.   Eggs usually begin to hatch about 220 DD after the first catch, and catches of adults in pheromone traps should be increasing as the weekend approaches.  We applied our first CM spray on Tuesday and Wednesday nights at around 210 to 225 DD to get any eggs that had been laid covered. As we view our new NEWA Codling Moth Data Results, we will hit that 250 DD mark tonight.  

Royal Oak Farm Orchard Codling Moth Data for June 6, 2018

NEWA Rainwise Weather Station

NEWA, the Network for Environment and Weather Applications, is a weather network, making it possible for farmers to share resources for weather data collection, analysis, distribution, and archiving.  Weather stations, primarily located on orchards and farms, deliver data to the NEWA website, which automatically calculates and displays weather data summaries, crop production tools, and IPM forecasts for each individual orchard or farm where the orchard or farm has a NEWA weather station located.  Royal Oak Farm Orchard is also a member of the Apple Talk Network of growers and IPM Specialists throughout Northern Illinois, Wisconsin, Eastern Iowa and Southeastern Minnesota.

  

You can now apply the first codling moth spray at this time and up through roughly 350 DD to prevent larvae from entering the fruit. Because insecticide residues last 7 to 10 days and moths are continuously present throughout the summer, apply a spray every 7 to 10 days to prevent later broods of codling moth larvae from entering apple and pear fruits. Always follow the label directions of any spray you may use.

Several insecticides can be used for codling moth control including acetmaprid and/or spinosad.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer.  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, and is also available in a concentrate containing .5% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact. They are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew.  Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth

Codling Moth Arrival In Full Force!

Everyone likes to eat apples, including over 70 insects, and a long list of fungi and bacteria.  To produce good tasting, good looking fruit, we have to control those pests.  Of all the flying pests we encounter in the upper Midwest, codling moth (CM) is one of  the insect pests needing to be controlled the most.  Codling moth is responsible for the proverbial worm in the apple, so to speak!  As we hit 250 Degree Days in this pest's flight cycle, lets see how we might control it.

Codling moth is a small moth whose caterpillars bore into the fruits of apple and pear trees during mid- to late-spring and summer.  Codling moth is the cause of what is often referred to as "the proverbial worm in the apple". The caterpillars of this insect can damage a high proportion of the fruits on apple trees in gardens in a small amount of time. 

Codling Moth Larvae

Newly-hatched larvae (caterpillars) chew through the fruit skin and bore their way to the core. The presence in fruit of one or more holes plugged with frass (excrement) is characteristic of attack by codling moth. The larvae enter the fruit through the sides, stem end, or calyx end, and a syrupy substance may exude from the holes as the fruit matures. Shallow entries called "stings" result when larvae penetrate a short distance and then die from insecticide poisoning or natural causes.

The eggs, larvae and pupae of codling moth each have specific physiological time requirements to complete development before they transform to the next stage. Temperature also affects the flight, mating, and egg laying activities of the adults. Although the minimum threshold for emergence of moths is 50 degrees Fahrenheit, male moths do not fly until temperatures exceed 55.4 degrees F and codling moths do not mate until temperatures exceed 60.8 degrees F.

   

Pheromone lure with trapped moths.

To determine when flight begins for codling moth, commercial growers make use of pheromone traps.  Once moths have been trapped for  two consecutive days in a row, a biofix is set  that initiates the beginning of growing-degree-day calculations.  We know that at 100 degree days after the biofix date codling moths begin to lay eggs and those eggs begin to hatch at 250 degree days after biofix.  It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for codling moth so they do not damage fruit.  Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch should make an application of an insecticide at 250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps.  Here is a Detailed Growing Degree Day Model for Codling Moth. 

 

We established a biofix for CM this past week on May 25th.  But for the home orchardist who does not have the benefit of a weather station or other means to calculate degree days, a simple tree growth stage time table can be followed.  Codling moths usually start flying at bloom time or just after bloom time at petal fall. Eggs laid by these moths begin to hatch about two weeks after petal fall, depending on the weather. You can apply the first codling moth spray at this time to prevent larvae from entering the fruit. Because insecticide residues last 7 to 10 days and moths are continuously present throughout the summer, apply a spray every 7 to 10 days to prevent later broods of codling moth larvae from entering apple and pear fruits. Always follow the label directions of any spray you may use.

Several insecticides can be used for codling moth control including acetmaprid and/or spinosad.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer.  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, and is also available in a concentrate containing .5% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact. They are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew.  Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth

The Plum Curculio Invasion is Beginning

Plum Curculio Ovipositing Egg

With apple scab season in our midst, and petal fall beginning, it is time to turn our attention to several insect pests.  The first and most difficult to contain is plum curculio (PC).  The adults pass the winter hidden under leaves, along fence rows, in brush piles, rock walls and in other protected places. In spring when the weather warms up (mean temperature 60°F. or maximum temperature above 75°F.), about the same time apples are blooming, the adults become active. Adult plum curculio beetles, pictured to the left, emerge in the spring, right around or just after petal fall, to feed on apple buds, flowers, leaves and young fruit.  From full bloom to petal fall usually lasts about 5 to 10 days.  From petal fall to fruit set is generally 5 to 10 days, depending on temperatures.  Once the fruit sets, female beetles cut holes in the young fruit and deposit one egg in each cavity. 

 

 

These sites are easily identified by their crescent shaped cuts. Unlike codling moth, the larvae of plum curculio rarely cause damage to the fruit. The fruit is primarily damaged superficially by the egg-laying and feeding by the adults. These "stings" will cork over and cause an indentation in the fruit as it matures making it look deformed and unsightly.

 

 

The question then becomes, how do we control them??  Pesticide application at this time is very important for plum curculio control. To prevent fruit drop, and due to toxicity to bees if there are still blooms on the trees, do not use carbaryl (Sevin®) or any pyrethrin based spray as these are highly toxic to honey bees and other pollinators. For home growers, an acetamiprid spray such as Ortho® Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer Ready-Spray is a deterrent.  If no blooms are present  on any trees, a pyrethrin based spray can be used as a deterrent, even though there may be no fruit.  Picking up and disposing of any fallen fruit will reduce problems with plum curculio, other insects, and many plant diseases. For conventional growers, Avaunt or Assail are two choices you might use, based on your codling moth protocol and your apple maggot protocol.  For a pure organic spray, the two most frequently used insecticides are Surround® and Pyganic®, both certified organic. The organic products may need to be sprayed multiple times for complete control at 7 to 10 day intervals or after any rain. And, as always, follow all label directions on any spray product.

For a complete Fact Sheet on Plum Curculio, consult the Cornell University Plum Curculio Fact Sheet and for an indepth look at plum curculio management in stone and pome fruits from Michigan State University.

Apple Scab Season Approaches

 Apple scab is the most prevalent and most damaging disease to apples we have in the Midwest. We are now officially emerging into the apple scab season as green tip and 1/4" green leaf tissue is seen on the apple trees.  At this point, scab sprays should be applied according to the spray guide protocol.  In the spring, once temperatures rise above the 42 degree or so  mark, apple scab fungal spores can germinate in water on the surface of  apple tree leaves and eventually,  on the fruit itself. The water or moisture that is on the leaves is termed "leaf wetness". The spores will germinate once the leaves are wet for a certain period of time at temperatures above 42 degrees  On the leaves, olive green to brown spots appear on the site of the infection.  If the leaves have not been protected from this "primary" scab infection, the spores will mature and produce more spores during "leaf wetness" periods and move onto the apples where they form a "scab" like lesion, if the fruit is not protected.  We call the lesions on the apples "secondary" scab.  With enough moisture (leaf wetness), the cycle continues throughout the growing season and destroys the crop.  Each leaf wetness event at the proper temperature that occurs during the early growing season is called and infection period.

Managing Apple Scab

The apple scab fungus survives in dead leaves on the ground and over winters there on the leaves.  A lack of spring rains can reduce its importance, but as a rule, apple scab requires yearly spray treatments.  And, ornamental crab apple trees are also hosts. As plant parts mature and the weather gets warmer, susceptibility to this disease decreases, usually in late June, but pinpoint scab can occur during extended periods of moisture during summer.  The main objective in scab management is the reduction or prevention of primary infections in spring. Extensive primary infections result in poor fruit set and make scab control during the season more difficult. If primary infections are successfully controlled, secondary infections will not be serious. The key to success in scab control is exact timing and full spray coverage. Wet periods, temperature, and relative humidity are important factors. Because scab control often is part of a combination treatment aimed at other diseases and insect control, choice of materials and timing are also extremely important.

 

How Can an Infection Period be Determined?

Apple scab infection periods can be predicted based on temperature and moisture (leaf wetness)  conditions. The Mills Table below, derived from research by Mills and La Plante, gives hours needed at various temperatures under constantly wet conditions for primary spores (ascospores) to cause infection in spring. This system for forecasting scab and timing sprays has been validated for apple-growing regions in the Midwest.

How to use the table: Figure the average temperature for the rain period by adding the maximum and the minimum temperatures and dividing by 2. If wet periods are intermittent, total their duration until there is a period of at least 6 hours of continuous dryness. You will need a wetness recorder to do this efficiently. If the dry period is sunny, and drying is quick and thorough, it is assumed that 6 hours after the trees have dried, the danger is passed. If drying is slow, and humidity remains high, then the 6-hour dry period is extended by a safety margin of 3 to 4 hours. 

 

To Spray or Not To Spray

 

Monitoring for apple scab can be quite complicated for the home grower.  But there is an alternative.  Unless wetness periods are being monitored as outlined in the section above, you can simply apply protective or eradicant fungicides at regular intervals beginning with green tip. Spraying should be done every 7 to 10 days, depending on the number of rain events between sprays.  If there are no rain events between sprays, a single protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's label directions.  You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event if you are going to use only a protectant.  A good protectant is Captan or Mancozeb.  But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to keep an eradicant on hand like a myclobutanil, which is available as Spectracide Immunox. A protectant like Captan has to be applied prior to a rain event.  If no protection is available during the wetting event, then only an eradicant like Immunox can be applied that has a reach back of at least 48 hours.  That means that it can still have an effect on the scab pathogen for up to 48 hours after a wetting event. A good option is to actually use both a protectant and an erdicant at the same time, like Captan mixed with Immunox, which will give you both protection and eradicant action after a wetting event. Be sure to monitor wetness periods throughout the spring to insure that trees are always adequately protected.  

More About Fungicides

 

Fungicides can be contact fungicides or penetrant fungicides and non-systemic, locally systemic or systemic. Mobility describes fungicide movement after it is applied to a plant. To understand differences in mobility, it’s important to know the difference between absorption and adsorption. 

Fungicides that can be taken up by the plant are absorbed. Fungicides that adhere in an extremely thin layer to plant surfaces are adsorbed. Because fungicides are either adsorbed or absorbed, they have two basic forms of mobility: contact and penetrant.  Regardless of the type of mobility that a fungicide possesses, no fungicide is effective after the development of visible disease symptoms. For that reason, timely fungicide application before establishment of the disease is important for optimal disease management.

Contact fungicides are adsorbed and considered non-systemic. They are susceptible to being washed away by rain  or irrigation, and most (but not all) do not protect parts that grow and develop after the product is applied.  Captan is one such contact fungicide.

Penetrant  fungicides are absorbed, so they move into plant tissues, and penetrate beyond the cuticle and into the treated leaf tissue itself.  There are various kinds of penetrants, characterized by their ability to spread when absorbed by the plant.  They can be locally systemic, penetrating leaf tissue only or systemic, moving beyond the leaf tissue. Systemic fungicides can be further subdivided based on the direction and degree of movement once they have been absorbed and translocated inside the plant. Immunox is a penetrant that is xylem mobile, therefor, not totally systemic or amphimobile.

©Janna Beckerman, Department of Botany and Plant Pathology, Purdue University

Xylem-mobile fungicides (also called acropetal penetrants ) move upward from the point of entry through the plant’s xylem.

Amphimobile  fungicides (also called true systemic penetrants) move throughout the plant through its xylemand phloem.

Locally systemic fungicides have limited translocation from the application site

Translaminar fungicides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact, but are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant.  

In summary, systemic fungicides work by becoming absorbed into the plant tissues and protecting the plant from fungal diseases as well as ridding the plant of any existing diseases. Some systemic fungicides are locally systemic, meaning that the chemicals aren't transmitted very far from the application site on the plant.  Other systemic fungicides are applied to and absorbed up through the roots, moving throughout the rest of the plant. Eradicant fungicides can have systemic action, depending on which chemistry is chosen. Some are translocated within the host tissue and are able to kill the scab fungus up to a certain length of time after infection occurs. This is called the kickback or reachback period. Because kickback periods may change, always check the label for the most recent information. Kickback is calculated from the beginning of an infection period, as determined by the Mills and La Plante table. 

Rainwise Weather Station and NEWA

On April 25, 2018, I installed and set up our new Rainwise weather station. With this new station, we are now members of NEWA. The Network for Environment and Weather Applications (NEWA) delivers weather data from weather stations located on farms through the Internet at Cornell University and automatically calculates and displays weather data summaries, crop production tools, and integrated pest management (IPM) forecasts. NEWA tools promote precision IPM and crop production practices. 

NEWA was formed in 1995 and continues to evolve with advances in pest and weather forecasting. It is operated at Cornell University by the New York State IPM Program and the Northeast Regional Climate Center (NRCC)
.
Weather data is radio transmitted from the weather station to the internet and then uploaded into NEWA. Climate data is archived in NEWA and run through quality control routines prior to calculating and displaying weather summaries and forecast tools for precision agriculture.

Degree days (DD) with base temperatures for different crops, insects and plant diseases, including growing degree days (GDD), are calculated and displayed. There are over 20 weather-based IPM forecast tools in NEWA. More tools are added when developed and validated.

In addition, NEWA links to climate, weather and IPM forecast products developed by other groups and researchers (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, NRCC, National Weather Service, ipmPIPE, the North American Plant Disease Forecast Center, etc.).

To access our weather data at Royal Oak Farm orchard, simply bookmark this link: https://www.rainwise.net/weather/0090C2FF5987.  You will be able to access temperature, wind  direction and speed, humidity, dewpoint, pressure, isolation, precipitation, leaf wetness, growing degree days, sunrise and sunset times, the weekly forecast and radar..

Spring Finally Arrived and It's Spray Time

It's time to apply a dormant/silver tip oil and copper spray for your fruit trees! The apple trees are at silver tip in the orchard here at Royal Oak Farm Orchard in northern Illinois and that is a sure sign that spring has arrived!! It also indicates that just as soon as the nights stay above freezing, it will be time to do a dormant/silver tip oil and copper spray. The oil (mineral oil) is sprayed for mites, scale and aphids because spring is the time to cover those eggs at the base of the buds before they begin to hatch.  The oil smothers the eggs and they suffocate before hatching.  Below you can see aphid eggs that were laid last fall.

Copper is also sprayed at this time for control of fire blight and to aid in the suppression of apple scab pathogens, both being severe diseases that can destroy a crop as well as the trees. We also have to be aware of the spring critical temperatures as the buds progress in development. Each spring I post the spring critical temperatures chart from Utah State to help you determine at what stage your fruit trees may be at as spring progresses.

Ever wonder how the fruit trees know when it's time to come out of dormancy? Well, the trees won't come out of dormancy until they have endured a certain amount of time with temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the number of chill hours they need is achieved and temperatures warm in the spring, the trees come out of dormancy and resume their normal growth. The number of hours required at cooler temperatures is known as the chill requirement or chill hours. As of this afternoon we had accumulated approx. 751 chill hours from October 1 of last fall. Most apple varieties require 400-1000 chill hours, so most of the trees in our area have met their requirement and will come out of dormancy just as soon as temperatures warm. Growth resumption can be predicted by tracking what we call growth units. Growth units are the number of degree hours above 41 F. For example, if the temperature averages 51 F for and hour, then 10 degree units are accumulated. Bud break initiates after approx 3710 F growth units accumulate, and progresses depending on the temperature. We do our dormant oil and copper spray generally around April 10. The best time to spray is at silver tip....when the buds have that silvery/gray tinted fuzz on them. You can use the chart below to determine the growth stage your trees may be at.

As I mentioned earlier, now is the time to do our fire blight copper spray and our horticultural oil spray.  We want to get the copper on the trees before they reach full 1/4” green and the horticultural oil can be sprayed at the same time in a tank mix or done as a dormant, silver tip,green tip, or 1/4” green spray.  In other words, your oil can be sprayed at any time from silver tip through 1/4” green providing you are using a mineral oil based product such as Superior Oil 70sec or an off the shelf Horticultural Oil such as Bonide’s All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil.  Your copper spray should be done before the trees reach 1/4” green to avoid any phytotoxicity issues.  For your copper spray you can also use an off the shelf brand such as Bonide Copper Fungicide RTU (Ready to Use). Since the Bonide Copper Fungicide contains Copper Octanoate (Copper Soap), it is safer to use on your trees than heavier metallic copper compounds that could have phytotoxicity issues after trees have green tipped. Both of these products should be available at your local hardware store or garden center of from Amazon.com.  We also have supplies at our Nursery at Royal Oak Farm Orchard.

A dormant oil and copper spray should not be done until we get at least a 24 hour period that is above freezing at night. The oil cannot freeze on the trees, but it pretty much dries within about 24 hours. Once dry, there is no chance of it freezing.  We usually get at least one 24 hour period above freezing at night before the trees get to 1/4" green. 

This “window of opportunity” for dormant sprays for fruit trees depends on the bud stage of your target fruit tree. You can follow these guidelines:

Apples: swollen bud to 1/4” green
Pears: swollen bud to cluster bud
Peaches/Nectarines: swollen bud to pre-bloom
Apricot: before bloom

When applying, spray trees just until they are dripping to get good application on all the stems and crevices at the buds. If you are using horticultural oil alone, use a rate of 2% (mixed in water) for best results or follow your chosen product’s label rate.  For situations where aphids have been real problems in the past, consider adding an insecticide (such as acetamiprid, etc.) to 1.5 - 2% oil or use one of the Bonide RTU (ready to use) pre-mixes for insect pests.

Time to Start Thinking About Pest Control

Many homeowners enjoy raising their own fruit, but anyone who has attempted to grow fruit in their backyard knows that fruit crops are attacked by a wide variety of insect and disease pests and prone to environmental damage, especially in the Midwest.  For your Home Orchard, we recommend the use of an entirely new approach to managing pests called Biointensive Integrated Pest management (Bio-IPM) to minimize the insect and disease damage to your fruit. Biointensive IPM utilizes a systems approach to pest management based on an understanding of pest ecology and tree physiology.  It begins with steps to accurately diagnose the nature and source of pest problems, and then relies on a range of preventive tactics and biological controls to keep pest populations within acceptable limits.  The preventative tactics include a combination of ecological, biological, natural, and cultural controls to keep applications of chemical and organic controls to a minimum. The goal is only to spray as a last resort for the control of pest and disease and to only use the most environmentally friendly materials.

In the northern regions of Illinois and in most apple growing regions east of the Mississippi, there are four main pests of apple trees.  Those four main pests are plum curculio, codling moth, apple maggot, fire blight and apple scab. To learn more about these pests and how to control them, you may want to download the available pest fact sheets  and the "Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings" guide from Purdue University available here or on our web site. This publication provides homeowners with the information they need to produce an acceptable amount of quality fruit (apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, grapes, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries).

  

Often there are enough beneficials (insects that prey upon other insects) to control the pest(s) in your orchard without spraying.  On other occasions you might use traps to catch pest species as they enter your orchard, or determine from the traps that there are too few of the pest to cause serious damage to your trees or fruit. But if you do have to control insect pests, there are many new all natural products on the market today that can be a 100% ecological solution.  One of those products is spinosad. Spinosad is a natural substance made by a soil bacterium that can be toxic to insects. It is a mixture of two abcterium called spinosyn A and spinosyn D. It is can be used to control a wide variety of insect pests. But  always, as a last resort, reduced- risk pesticides may need to be used if other tactics have not been adequately effective, and with care to minimize risks. 



 As the growing season approaches, now is the  time to determine what pest problems you had last season, or may have this season, and what the best approach is to handle those problems.  As the various stages of tree growth develop, so does the growth of pests.   The "Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings" guide will provide for you a chart of the growth cycles of the tree and a spray guide chart to let you know what pests are prevalent during those growth stages.  The "Spray Guide" will give you a list of environmentally friendly products you might need to use against those pests as a last resort.  Remember, spray chemicals is a last resort, but is also necessary if bio-controls are not working on your pests.


 
The benefits of implementing biointensive IPM include reduced chemical input costs, reduced environmental impacts, and more effective and sustainable pest management.  An ecology-based IPM has the potential of decreasing inputs of natural chemicals and synthetic chemicals - all of which are energy intensive and increasingly costly in terms of financial and environmental impact.  All these efforts make it possible for you to apply chemical controls only a few times each season when they are truly required. And we can recommend the use the most environmentally friendly materials available in our Nursery Center.      

I hope you find this post useful!  As always, if you have any questions contact me anytime via comments or through our web site!