Second Generation Codling Moth Beginning to Emerge

As I have mentioned in previous posts, of all the flying pests we encounter in the upper Midwest, codling moth is one of  the insect pests needing to be controlled the most.  Even though codling moth flight began back on June 7 (our biofix date), that first generation of eggs that made it through the first spray protocols have hatched, gone through their 5 instar phases and are now beginning to fly as adult moths.   The first sustained flight of the second generation usually begins at 1200 to 1250 and today we are at 1012DD since that first biofix of June 7, 2019.

Armed with a biofix of June 7, and by calculating the degree days from that biofix date, we can now begin our countdown for our first spray against the "proverbial worm in the apple" for second generation........if we have a second generation that is above our threshold and need to do a spray at all!  If you only have a few trees, your threshold for damage might be much lower than ours here at the orchard with over 17,000 trees.  If you can withstand only a few damaged apples, then you may not need to spray at all.  But if your damage is significant, then your choice may be a needed spray. 

Codling Moth Model

 

To review, degree-days (DD) are determined by use of the average temperature for a day (maximum temperature + minimum temperature/2) and subtracting it from the base temperature  at which the insect does not develop. For the codling moth a base temperature of 50°F is used. (Temperatures above 88°F are upper thresholds for codling moth  activity  and  should  not  be  included in  degree  day accounting.)  As an  example, a day when the high temperature was 80°F and the low temperature was 60°F,  then 20 degree days would accumulate [(80 + 60/2)- 50]. 

 

Here is a Detailed Growing Degree Day Model for Codling Moth.  Following the model, we know that at 1000 degree days after the biofix date the first generation of codling mot end their flight.  At about 1250 DD after that first biofix, the second generation eggs may begin to hatch.  Codling moths begin to lay those eggs around 105oDD and those eggs begin to hatch at about 1250 degree days after that first biofix.  It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for 2nd generation codling moth so they do not damage fruit.  Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch should make an application of an insecticide at 1250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps.  If you have no way of monitoring these temperatures for degree days, I anticipate, given the projected forecast for the next week, that a spray date should be around August 3 to August 5. 

CONTROL

There  are only a very limited  number of spray products on the home garden/ consumer market that are available for managing codling moth in home orchards, as I have mentioned in previous posts. All of these require repeated application, timed for periods when eggs are being laid and are hatching, and thorough coverage of fruit.  Let's review these again.

  

Spinosad. Spinosad is a naturally derived material, produced by soil microbes (active ingredient, spinosyns). Several formulations are available, most of which are allowed to be used in Certified Organic production. Combination with horticultural oil is often useful in increasing control and fruit coverage. Applications should be made at 10-14 day intervals during periods when eggs are hatching. Effects of spinosad on natural enemies of fruit-infesting insects generally are minimal, although some are susceptible.

Acetamiprid.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer.  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact, but are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth

 

This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these  recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned.  The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.

Japanese Beetle Has Finally Arrived

Figure 1.

Japanese Beetle emergence has begun here in Northern Illinois.  I noticed the first beetles on Monday and today they were in full view on our Honeycrisp trees (Figure 1).  Due to the large amount of carbohydrates produced by the Honeycrisp trees, which is what makes the variety so sweet, the Japanese Beetle is seemingly attracted to it just like we are!  Honeycrisp seem to be the first leaves that attract them and then they move on to raspberries and several other berry varieties.   

 Monitoring for Japanese Beetle

Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the soil and live from 30 to 45 days feeding on plants over a four-to-six-week period.  The adults produce aggregation pheromones that attract individuals (both males and females) to the same feeding location. Adults can fly up to five miles to locate a feeding site; however, they tend to fly only short distances to feed and lay eggs.   The adult beetles normally emerge during the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out that suitable food , like Honeycrisp, and begin to feed. These early arrivals then begin to release that aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults. Newly emerged females also release a sex pheromone that attracts males. After feeding and mating for a day or two, the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females lay 1 to 5 eggs before returning to plants to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. Most of the eggs are laid by mid-August though adults may be found until the first frost. The eggs hatch in 8 to 14 days and the first instar larvae dig to the soil surface to feed on roots and organic material. The first instars shed their skin (molt) in 17 to 25 days. The second instars take 18 to 45 days to mature and molt again. Most of the grubs are in the third instar by late September and by October they dig deeper into the soil to overwinter. The grubs return to thesurface in the spring as the soil temperature warms, usually in mid-April. The grubs continue their development and form a pupa in an earthen cell 1 to 3 inches in the soil. 

Figure 2.

When you see those first few beetles, that is the time to begin you plan of attack.  Those first few beetles are the food source scouts that will emit the aggregation pheromone letting other beetles know that a feast is on! The Japanese beetle adults feed through the upper leaf surface (epidermis) and leaf center (mesophyll), leaving the lower epidermis intact. Adults usually avoid feeding on tissue between leaf veins, resulting in leaves appearing lace-like or skeletonized (Figure 2). Controlling those first few beetles can give you a head start on stopping the feeding/mating cycle.

 Control for Japanese Beetle

There are some control options for the adult life stage One is physical removal and/or trapping of adults:  Removing beetles by hand, or trapping, may provide adequate protection  for  small plantings  when  beetle  numbers are low.  However, Japanese  beetle  adults  are capable  of  migrating  from  other  areas,  and  the presence  of  beetles  on  or  near  a  plant  will  attract more   beetles.  Consequently,   use   of   Japanese beetle traps often attracts more beetles, and results in subsequent damage to plants.  

Figure 3.

The other alternative is chemical control of adults:  Several insecticides are labeled  for  use  against  adult  Japanese  beetles.  Always  follow  label  directions.    Typically, this may entail 2 treatments during the peak beetle flight. Homeowners should make their first application before damage becomes intolerable and beetles are still abundant. The need for repeated applications can be curtailed by inspecting plants for additional beetle damage prior to applying a second treatment. Neem products containing Azadirachtin can be effective repellents that can reduce defoliation when applied regularly (but no more than weekly) during beetle flight.  Apply before defoliation becomes intolerable. In years when beetle populations are very high, noticeable defoliation may occur because adults will consume a small amount of insecticide tainted leaves before they are killed.  Treat  foliage  and flowers thoroughly.  For optimal control, apply in the late afternoon when beetles are most active. Several other insecticides can be used for Japanese beetle control including those used for codling moth and apple maggot control like acetamaprid.  There are others like Sevin, but I do not recommend the use of Sevin since it is toxic to bees and to beneficial insects.   Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Figure 3).  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. 

If you do choose to use chemical controls make sure that the plant you are applying to is listed on the label as well as Japanese Beetles. If controlling Japanese Beetles on food crops such brambles or apples – make sure to follow the harvest-restriction date on the label. Always READ and FOLLOW the label and do not apply at rates higher than listed.

This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these  recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned.  The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.

Apple Maggot Monitoring Begins

Fig. 1

In 2018 we trapped the first apple maggot fly on June 30 which was about 1150 Degree Days from January 1.  We are at 953 DD as of today at 2:22 PM, so it is time to get out the  apple maggot traps  and get them set.  It only takes one non-baited trapped fly to  determine that they have arrived to the orchard!  The apple maggot (AM) is native to the Midwestern US and is considered a primary pest, along with plum curculio (PC), and codling moth (CM), which have been covered in previous posts. The adult apple maggot fly resembles a small housefly in size, with a black body, eyes of dark red, with the thorax and abdomen having distinctive white or cream colored bands. The AM is distinguished from other similar, and closely related flies, like cherry fruit fly and black cherry fruit fly, by the variation in dark banding on its wings (See Fig. 1).  

Fig. 2

The AM overwinters in the pupal stage in soil. As soil temperatures rise in early spring, development of pupae commences. The adult fly first emergence begins shortly thereafter (early summer, mid to late June in upper Illinois). It takes about 7 to 10 days for the female to mature enough to mate and lay eggs.  So there is a 7 - 10 day window for spraying prior to egg laying.  A feeding and mating period (pre-oviposition) during this 7-10 days is followed by egg laying directly under the skin of the apple. Females may deposit eggs over an approximate 30 day period laying as many as 300-500 eggs.

Fig. 3

Egg-laying punctures cause dimples and distortion in the outer flesh of fruits. These punctures appear as pinpricks on the fruit surface. Larvae tunnel throughout the fruit leaving irregular trails.(Fig. 2) As eggs hatch, larvae funnel through fruit flesh leaving a winding brown trail.(Fig. 3)  Egg laying usually ceases in early to late August; however, it may continue longer if drought conditions exist throughout August.

Monitoring For Apple Maggot

Fig. 4

When monitoring for AM, the apple maggot fly tends to show a preference for golden delicious varieties, but no variety is immune from attack.  Sticky red spheres are effective monitoring devices for adult AM flies (Fig. 4). Females are attracted to the sphere for mating and egg laying activities and are trapped by the sticky coating. Hang traps shortly before expected adult emergence (mid to late June in upper Illinois). First emergence may be detected by checking traps daily until the first fly is spotted on the non-baited trap. 

Hang the sphere in the proximity to fruit at eye level on the perimeter of the south or southeast side of the tree. Attach the ball in a sturdy stem about 1 foot above a fruit cluster of approximately 6-10, cleaning out the foliage and other fruit for at least 18 inches to sides and top of the trap so it is easily visible. The spheres attract the insects that come within a few yards of them; therefore, the capture of ONE AM on any one non-baited trap at a time would indicate the need for an immediate control application. The capture of 5 flies on a baited trap would  indicate the need for an immediate control application. Once the pesticide is applied, AM captures are disregarded for the period during which the protective spray is effective (varies according to pesticide used).

Control for Apple Maggot

Fig 5.

Several insecticides can be used for apple maggot control including those used for codling moth control like   and/or spinosad.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Fig. 5).  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects.  Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

Fig. 6

An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew (Fig. 6).  Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.

As always, be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets and guides  which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43071/apple-maggot-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/apple-maggot

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ID/ID-146-W.pdf

Reference in this blog to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm, Inc.   People using such products assume responsibility for their use in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.
 

More About Primary and Secondary Apple Scab

This 2019 growing season thus far is proving to be even worse than the 2018 season for apple scab.  We have received over 14" of rain since April 1, and, as of today, July 1, have had 15  apple scab infection periods. With several of those infection periods lasting for more than 48 hours and some of them lasting more than 72 hours it has been pretty much impossible to control primary scab outbreaks.  With that being the case, we are at a point of now having to protect fruit from secondary scab.

Fig. 1

Season-long control is very difficult if primary infections develop, like those in Fig. 1, which produce secondary inoculum placing fruit at risk for secondary, conidial infections.   With primary ascospores possibly depleted, we will have to continue to monitor scab infection events and maintain spray coverage accordingly for at least two more weeks, if not longer, since we have found primary lesions,  like those in Fig. 2 on McIntosh and McIntosh hybrids like Cortland and Empire.  If you have seen lesions like those in Fig. 2, on your trees, then you will now need to protect your fruit from secondary lesions.

Fig. 2

The best product for protecting your fruit is Captan, a contact protectant. And that means that your trees will need to be sprayed with Captan at the full labelled rate prior to any rain event to protect your fruit.  If there are no rain events between sprays, a single contact protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's labeled information.  You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event  when using only a protectant. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to reapply as soon as you can before the next rain event.   If no protection is available during the wetting event, then the liklihood of your fruit getting infected dramatically increases.

As always, be sure to follow the label directions on any spray product you may use.   For further information on control of apple scab, refer to:

 http://royaloakfarmorchard.blogspot.com/2018/04/apple-scab-season-approaches.html

Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.  People using spray products assume responsibility for their use in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer for that product.

 

Codling Moth Biofix Has Been Set and It's Time To Spray

Pheromone lure with trapped moths.

To determine when flight begins for codling moth, commercial growers make use of pheromone traps.  Once moths have been trapped for  two consecutive days in a row, a biofix is set  that initiates the beginning of growing-degree-day calculations.  We know that at approximately 100 degree days after the biofix date codling moths begin to lay eggs and those eggs begin to hatch at approximately 250 degree days after biofix.  It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for codling moth so they do not damage fruit.  Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch (larval stage) should make an application of an insecticide at 250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps.  Here is a Detailed Growing Degree Day Model for Codling Moth.   

 

We have now established a biofix for CM for this spring and it was June 7.  You may apply insecticides that need to be present before egg laying at about 50-75 DD or you may apply insecticides that target early egg laying period at 100-200 DD.  Since the biofix date, we have accumulated approximately 94 DD, so it is now time for the home grower to apply a spray to target early egg laying. 

 

For the home orchardist who does not have the benefit of a weather station or other means to calculate degree days, a simple tree growth stage time table can be followed.  Codling moths usually start flying at bloom time or just after bloom time at petal fall and approximately at the same time as plum curculio.  Eggs laid by these moths begin to hatch about two weeks after petal fall, depending on the weather. You can apply the first codling moth spray at this time, about two weeks after petal fall, to prevent larvae from entering the fruit. Because most insecticide residues last 7 to 10 days and moths are continuously present throughout the summer, apply a spray every 7 to 10 days to prevent later broods of codling moth larvae from entering apple and pear fruits. If using a natural product like Spinosad, then spray after every rain due to washoff.  Always follow the label directions of any spray you may use.

Several insecticides can be used for codling moth control including acetmaprid and/or spinosad.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Insect Killer.  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, and is also available in a concentrate containing .5% acetamiprid.  Acetamiprid is a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray.  Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact. They are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the entire plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects once it is dry. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

An all natural approach is also available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew.  Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.  

Both of the above products will kill Codling Moth larvae and need to be sprayed just prior to the emergence of the larvae,  which is between 100 to 250 DD after biofix.  Since we are at or near 100 DD after biofix, your trees can be sprayed now and again in 7 to 10 days, depending on the amount of rain that may fall after spraying.  Typically after 1" of rain, these sprays will have been washed off and will need to be sprayed again to be effective.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth

 Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use

of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not

constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.

People using spray products assume responsibility for their use

in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.

Codling Moth Flight Begins......Very Slowly!

Everyone likes to eat apples, including over 70 insects, and a long list of fungi and bacteria.  To produce good tasting, good looking fruit, we have to control those pests.  We have discussed plum curculio in the May 29 post, but of all the flying pests we encounter in the upper Midwest, codling moth (CM) is one of  the insect pests needing to be controlled the most.  Codling moth is responsible for the proverbial worm in the apple, so to speak! Yet, so far this spring, we have only trapped 2 CM (codling moth) in traps thus far.  With the cooler nights, flight has been remarkably low.  So, before CM flights becomes consistent, let's review the development and movement of CM.

Codling moth (CM) is a small moth whose caterpillars bore into the fruits of apple and pear trees during mid- to late-spring and summer.  Codling moth is the cause of what is often referred to as "the proverbial worm in the apple". The caterpillars of this insect can damage a high proportion of the fruits on apple trees in gardens in a small amount of time. 

Codling Moth Larvae

Newly-hatched larvae (caterpillars) chew through the fruit skin and bore their way to the core. The presence in fruit of one or more holes plugged with frass (excrement) is characteristic of attack by codling moth. The larvae enter the fruit through the sides, stem end, or calyx end, and a syrupy substance may exude from the holes as the fruit matures. Shallow entries called "stings" result when larvae penetrate a short distance and then die from insecticide poisoning or natural causes.

The eggs, larvae and pupae of codling moth each have specific physiological time requirements to complete development before they transform to the next stage. Temperature also affects the flight, mating, and egg laying activities of the adults. Although the minimum threshold for emergence of moths is 50 degrees Fahrenheit, male moths do not fly until temperatures exceed 55.4 degrees F and codling moths do not mate until temperatures exceed 60.8 degrees F in the evening beginning at or right after sunset.

   

Pheromone lure with trapped moths.

To determine when flight begins for codling moth, commercial growers make use of pheromone traps.  Once moths have been trapped for  two consecutive days in a row, a biofix is set  that initiates the beginning of growing-degree-day calculations.  We know that at 100 degree days after the biofix date codling moths begin to lay eggs and those eggs begin to hatch at 250 degree days after biofix.  It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for codling moth so they do not damage fruit.  Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch should make an application of an insecticide at 250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps.  Here is a Detailed Growing Degree Day Model for Codling Moth.   

 

We have not yet established a biofix for CM this spring and may establish one within the next few days  But for the home orchardist who does not have the benefit of a weather station or other means to calculate degree days, a simple tree growth stage time table can be followed.  Codling moths usually start flying at bloom time or just after bloom time at petal fall and approximately at the same time as plum curculio.  Eggs laid by these moths begin to hatch about two weeks after petal fall, depending on the weather. You can apply the first codling moth spray at this time, about two weeks after petal fall, to prevent larvae from entering the fruit. Because most insecticide residues last 7 to 10 days and moths are continuously present throughout the summer, apply a spray every 7 to 10 days to prevent later broods of codling moth larvae from entering apple and pear fruits. If using a natural product like Spinosad, then spray after every rain due to washoff.  Always follow the label directions of any spray you may use.

Several insecticides can be used for codling moth control including acetmaprid and/or spinosad.  Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as  Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer.  This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, and is also available in a concentrate containing .5% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact. They are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the entire plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth.  When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.

An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew.  Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.

For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:

https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth

 Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use

of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not

constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.

People using spray products assume responsibility for their use

in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.

Our First Major Insect of the Growing Season

Plum Curculio Ovipositing Egg

With apple scab season in our midst, and petal fall ending, it is time to turn our attention to several insect pests.  I have had the first sighting of plum curculio activity in the orchard today.   Plum curculio (PC) is one of the most difficult insect pests to contain.  They enter the orchard from the perimeter after the adults pass the winter hidden under leaves, along fence rows, in brush piles, rock walls and in other protected places. In spring when the weather warms up (mean temperature 60°F. or maximum temperature above 75°F.), about the same time apples are blooming, the adults become active. The adult plum curculio beetles, pictured to the left, emerge right around or just after petal fall, to feed on apple buds, flowers, leaves and young fruit.  The duration of full bloom to petal fall is usually about 5 to 10 days.  From petal fall to fruit set is generally another 5 to 10 days, depending on temperatures.  Once the fruit sets, female beetles cut holes in the young fruit and deposit one egg in each cavity. 

 

 

These sites, called oviposition stings, are easily identified by their crescent shaped cuts. Unlike codling moth, the larvae of plum curculio rarely cause damage to the fruit. The fruit is primarily damaged superficially by the egg-laying and feeding by the adults. These "stings" will cork over and cause an indentation in the fruit as it matures making it look deformed and unsightly.

The question then becomes, how do we control them??  Pesticide application at this time is very important for plum curculio control. To prevent fruit drop, and due to toxicity to bees if there are still blooms on the trees, do not use carbaryl (Sevin®) or any pyrethrin based spray as these are highly toxic to honey bees and other pollinators as well as any beneficial insects. For home growers, an acetamiprid spray such as Ortho® Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer Ready-Spray is a deterrent.  If no blooms are present  on any trees, a pyrethrin based spray can be used as a deterrent, even though there may be no fruit.  Picking up and disposing of any fallen fruit will reduce problems with plum curculio, other insects, and many plant diseases. For conventional growers, Avaunt or Assail are two choices you might use, based on your codling moth protocol and your apple maggot protocol.

For a pure organic spray, the two most frequently used insecticides are Surround® and Pyganic®, both certified organic. The organic products may need to be sprayed multiple times for complete control at 7 to 10 day intervals or after any rain. And, as always, follow all label directions on any spray product. 

For a complete Fact Sheet on Plum Curculio, consult the Cornell University Plum Curculio Fact Sheet and for an in depth look at 

 Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use

of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not

constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.

People using spray products assume responsibility for their use

in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.

Main Pests, Tree Growth Stages and Spray Guide

If you have a Home Orchard or just a few apple trees in your back yard, if you have not thought about how to handle those pest problems you had last season yet, now is the time to actively examine a spray protocol  for your fruit trees! And start right away, before it is too late and the pests have a chance to establish themselves in your trees!  The question everyone needs to ask before spraying is “Do I want to spray or not?”   Well, unfortunately, in northern Illinois we have four main pests that we will almost always have to spray for.  The decision to spray or not depends on how much fruit loss you are willing to take. That is your threshold.  If you can accept some fruit loss, then the need to spray diminishes greatly.  But if you only have a few trees and some fruit damage may mean losing half your fruit, then spraying becomes more important.  Let’s meet our top four pests in northern Illinois,  southern Wisconsin, and in most of the states east of the Rocky Mountains. 

 The Four Main Pests

 

The four main pests that we face in apple orchards here in our climate zone of 5/5A are apple scab, plum curculio, codling moth and apple maggot, in that order. For more information on these and other potential apple tree pests, visit our web site Growing Guide page.  But how do we know when to spray for them if it is a last resort to protecting our fruit? 
 

All tree fruit have several distinct growth stages as the fruit matures.  Knowing and identifying those growth stages is  very important for the home grower because recommendations and spray timing for spray applications are linked to these specific growth stages.  The chart below shows the common growth stages for apple trees.  

Tree Growth Stages (Phenology)

 

Since the average home grower does not have access to their own weather stations or degree day calculators, the fruit tree development stages play an ever greater  role in pest management for the average grower.  Most spray schedules (protocol) follow the tree development stages to aid in the timing of sprays so they are most effective.  It is important to note that many diseases and some insects can only be controlled by spraying before they can be seen like apple scab.  Spraying less frequently or at the wrong time will typically result in poor results.  And, spraying more frequently will not necessarily give greater control. 

The tree developmental stages or tree phenology gives us a guide as to when to spray, but what do we spray if we have to spray?  If we consult some of the various spray guides available to the home grower, we will find that most of the spray guides provide us with the tree’s development stages (phenology) and the insects or diseases that frequently  occur during each of theses stages.  So the tree phenology serves as timing guide when the application of a particular spray is recommended in order to control specific insects or diseases at the right time.   The following spray guide for apple trees will give us the time to spray based on tree phenology, the pest to spray for and the product recommendation for that pest(s).

Apple Spray Guide

This particular spray guide is included in “Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings” from the Purdue University Extensions Publication web site or our web site as a free download.  It goes into detail as to the various products available for spraying that include both conventional and organic alternatives.  The publication includes apples,  pears, peach, cherry, grape, strawberry and raspberry guides as well as the phenology charts for each fruit type.  For recommendations on spray products for the Home Orchard visit our spray product recommendations.

Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use

of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not

constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.

People using spray products assume responsibility for their use

in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.