tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46472207957405648932024-02-19T06:41:56.745-06:00Home Orchard Management @ Royal Oak Farm OrchardHome Orchard Management @ Royal Oak Farm Orchard is a blog for the home fruit tree grower providing information about fruit tree management, fruit tree pruning & training and Integrated Pest Management from the IPM Specialist and Certified Nurseryman at Royal Oak Farm Orchard, a 16,000 tree apple orchard and agri-tourism operation located in Harvard, Illinois.Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-91352024835956929162022-04-10T15:07:00.000-05:002022-04-10T15:07:06.043-05:00We Have Moved!<h1 style="text-align: left;"> We have moved to our new web site at <a href="http://www.royaloak.farm/blog">http://www.royaloak.farm/blog</a></h1>Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-78017346105927618862021-07-23T12:36:00.000-05:002021-07-23T12:36:21.401-05:00Apple Maggot Has Arrived<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zbiSddkxsVz3M3pp-iMJxHe_rd9bMK7GO8-4WKyzJm-317GjLzzNVht012Riun06UlSFPUsSM0yT58NV9rKaTku4HiG6ePdqoOCj5FDTO2m9_MmmQyenpFuWi_5OZe8EhM7JmoqZQi5u/s1600/apple_maggot_male_female.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="349" data-original-width="330" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zbiSddkxsVz3M3pp-iMJxHe_rd9bMK7GO8-4WKyzJm-317GjLzzNVht012Riun06UlSFPUsSM0yT58NV9rKaTku4HiG6ePdqoOCj5FDTO2m9_MmmQyenpFuWi_5OZe8EhM7JmoqZQi5u/s200/apple_maggot_male_female.png" width="188" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBelC3Bl9zeuGlKBCkdYJM0bk-EY9VxwlU5AnN7NjnRZr8SU05QCxCf9aP9wV7QrP5gWDqXCwOBsLxO3RLHjUflg6kgWtoiMwE1Y94OYi8kGKBDC6IQ4yJrf_qZwCCnxen4QoSkEiSP0l/s1600/ApMaggotWings.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBelC3Bl9zeuGlKBCkdYJM0bk-EY9VxwlU5AnN7NjnRZr8SU05QCxCf9aP9wV7QrP5gWDqXCwOBsLxO3RLHjUflg6kgWtoiMwE1Y94OYi8kGKBDC6IQ4yJrf_qZwCCnxen4QoSkEiSP0l/s200/ApMaggotWings.jpg" width="111" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Fig. 1</span></td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">In 2021 we have trapped the first apple maggot fly on July 19 at about 1500 Degree Days from January 1. We are at 1561 DD as of today at 12:20 PM, so if you have not done so, it is time to get out the apple maggot traps and get them set. I set our orchard's traps a few weeks ago and have started trapping flies. It only takes one non-baited trapped fly to determine that they have arrived to the orchard! The apple maggot (AM) is native to the Midwestern US and is considered a primary pest, along with plum curculio (PC), and codling moth (CM), which have been covered in previous posts. The adult apple maggot fly resembles a small housefly in size, with a black body, eyes of dark red, with the thorax and abdomen having distinctive white or cream colored bands. The AM is distinguished from other similar, and closely related flies, like cherry fruit fly and black cherry fruit fly, by the variation in dark banding on its wings (See Fig. 1). </span> </font></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LDxEvaHYHpcvPsV1hNWpW3TrWTAbIGM5hR2nf9rs3i57zIlF9xHViA2dunkQUTs1eYqVHrODn-UgKmENpAP4WnfzRq6p80Lo46qfHgZPpg3koP5mKNsxMnEEE3gOZ9TW-FFnHPZLlKzQ/s1600/apple_maggot_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Apple Maggot damageA" border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LDxEvaHYHpcvPsV1hNWpW3TrWTAbIGM5hR2nf9rs3i57zIlF9xHViA2dunkQUTs1eYqVHrODn-UgKmENpAP4WnfzRq6p80Lo46qfHgZPpg3koP5mKNsxMnEEE3gOZ9TW-FFnHPZLlKzQ/s200/apple_maggot_damage.jpg" title="Apple Maggot damage" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Fig. 2</span></td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">The AM overwinters in the pupal stage in soil. As soil temperatures rise in early spring, development of pupae commences. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">The adult fly first emergence begins shortly thereafter (early summer, mid to late July this year in upper Illinois). It takes about 7 to 10 days for the female to mature enough to mate and lay eggs. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> So there is a 7 - 10 day window for spraying prior to egg laying. </span>A feeding and mating period (pre-oviposition) during this 7-10 days is followed by egg laying directly under the skin of the apple. Females may deposit eggs over an </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">approximate 30 day period laying as many as 300-500 eggs. </span></font></div><font size="3">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Fig. 3</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> <font size="3">Egg-laying punctures cause dimples and distortion in the outer flesh of fruits. These punctures appear as pinpricks on the fruit surface. Larvae tunnel throughout the fruit leaving irregular trails.(Fig. 2) As eggs hatch, larvae funnel through fruit flesh leaving a winding brown trail.(Fig. 3) Egg laying usually ceases in early to late August; however, it may continue longer if drought conditions exist throughout August.</font></span></div>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><b><u>Monitoring For Apple Maggot</u></b></span></font> <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 4</td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">When monitoring for AM, the apple maggot fly tends to show a preference for golden delicious varieties, but no variety is immune from attack. Sticky red spheres are effective monitoring devices for adult AM flies (Fig. 4). Females are attracted to the sphere for mating and egg laying activities and are trapped by the sticky coating. Hang traps shortly before expected adult emergence (early july in upper Illinois). First emergence may be detected by checking traps daily until the first fly is spotted on the non-baited trap. </span></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Hang the sphere in the proximity to fruit at eye level on the perimeter of the south or southeast side of the tree. Attach the ball in a sturdy stem about 1 foot above a fruit cluster of approximately 6-10, cleaning out the foliage and other fruit for at least 18 inches to sides and top of the trap so it is easily visible. The spheres attract the insects that come within a few yards of them; therefore, <b>the capture of ONE AM on any one non-baited trap at a time would indicate the need for an immediate control application. The capture of 5 flies on a baited trap would </b></span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> indicate the need for an immediate control application.</span></b> Once the pesticide is applied, AM captures are disregarded for the period during which the protective spray is effective (varies according to pesticide used). Trap kits are available at Gardens Alive by folowing this link, <a href="https://www.gardensalive.com/product/economy-red-sphere-traps-1?p=0165829&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0emHBhC1ARIsAL1QGNceDa7Z5XLHoy9lUB3IP8YYi5hg3s5p_iEvNh--j2K1zvK6up0bBrUaAjJOEALw_wcB" target="_blank">Gardens Alive</a>.<br /></span></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><u><b>Control for Apple Maggot</b></u></span></font></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig 5.</td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Several insecticides can be used for apple maggot control including those used for codling moth control like and/or spinosad. Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and may still be available as Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Fig. 5). Ortho has phased this product out of production, but there may still be some bottles available at local retailers. This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.</span></font></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 6</td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew (Fig. 6). Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.</span><br />
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</font><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">As always, be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.</span></font> </span></div>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">For additional information, see the following fact sheets and guides which are available from local university extension services:</span></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/1813/43071" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43071/apple-maggot-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y</span></a></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/apple-maggot">http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/apple-maggot</a></span></font></div><font size="3">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ID/ID-146-W.pdf" target="_blank">https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ID/ID-146-W.pdf</a></span></font></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><br /></span></font></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">______________________________________________</span></font><br />
<font size="2"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Reference in this blog to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm, Inc. People using such products assume responsibility for their use in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> </span></font></div>Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-41438317627840665872021-06-13T13:56:00.010-05:002021-07-15T11:51:30.380-05:00Controlling Japanes Beetle<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8bBTzwKu4IsRBPu98Z_3o8IVwY1PHg2Q0IznFVtkfgJNlMUnInbnxu39g6r8ci63XnPRkm-WlfNDt-HU0YZ4QKFm5ihfQErZrdWGP7pHmApP41eZzYwNJ0CQoMOCkd99dNfXpVC7sk4T/s1600/japanese_beetle_03.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1342" data-original-width="1230" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8bBTzwKu4IsRBPu98Z_3o8IVwY1PHg2Q0IznFVtkfgJNlMUnInbnxu39g6r8ci63XnPRkm-WlfNDt-HU0YZ4QKFm5ihfQErZrdWGP7pHmApP41eZzYwNJ0CQoMOCkd99dNfXpVC7sk4T/s320/japanese_beetle_03.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Japanese Beetle emergence has not quite begun here in Northern Illinois, but beetles have been spotted in other locations of the Midwest. Once Japanese Beetle have emerged in one location, it is only a matter of time before it emerges in another. They tend to gravitate to Honeycrisp trees first (Figure 1). Due to the large amount of carbohydrates produced by the Honeycrisp trees, which is what makes the variety so sweet, the Japanese Beetle is seemingly attracted to it just like we are! Honeycrisp seem to be the first leaves that attract them and then they move on to raspberries and several other berry and apple varieties. </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"><u>Monitoring for Japanese Beetle</u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the soil and live from 30 to 45 days feeding on plants over a four-to-six-week period. The adults produce aggregation pheromones that attract individuals (both males and females) to the same feeding location. Adults can fly up to five miles to locate a feeding site; however, they tend to fly only short distances to feed and lay eggs. The adult beetles normally emerge during the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out that suitable food , like Honeycrisp, and begin to feed. These early arrivals then begin to release that aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults. Newly emerged females also release a sex pheromone that attracts males. After feeding and mating for a day or two, the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females lay 1 to 5 eggs before returning to plants to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. Most of the eggs are laid by mid-August though adults may be found until the first frost. The eggs hatch in 8 to 14 days and the first instar larvae dig to the soil surface to feed on roots and organic material. The first instars shed their skin (molt) in 17 to 25 days. The second instars take 18 to 45 days to mature and molt again. Most of the grubs are in the third instar by late September and by October they dig deeper into the soil to overwinter. The grubs return to thesurface in the spring as the soil temperature warms, usually in mid-April. The grubs continue their development and form a pupa in an earthen cell 1 to 3 inches in the soil. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">When you see those first few beetles, that is the time to begin your plan of attack. Those first few beetles are the food source scouts that will emit the aggregation pheromone letting other beetles know that a feast is on! The Japanese beetle adults feed through the upper leaf surface (epidermis) and leaf center (mesophyll), leaving the lower epidermis intact. Adults usually avoid feeding on tissue between leaf veins, resulting in leaves appearing lace-like or skeletonized (Figure 2). Controlling those first few beetles can give you a head start on stopping the feeding/mating cycle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> <u>Control for Japanese Beetle</u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">There are some control options for the adult life stage One is physical removal and/or trapping of adults: Removing beetles by hand, or trapping, may provide adequate protection for small plantings when beetle numbers are low. However, Japanese beetle adults are capable of migrating from other areas, and the presence of beetles on or near a plant will attract more beetles. Consequently, use of Japanese beetle traps often attracts more beetles, and results in subsequent damage to plants. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">The other alternative is chemical control of adults: Several insecticides are labeled for use against adult Japanese beetles. Always follow label directions. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> Typically, this may entail 2 treatments during the peak beetle flight. Homeowners should make their first application before damage becomes intolerable and beetles are still abundant. The need for repeated applications can be curtailed by inspecting plants for additional beetle damage prior to applying a second treatment. Neem products containing Azadirachtin can be effective repellents that can reduce defoliation when applied regularly (but no more than weekly) during beetle flight. Apply before defoliation becomes intolerable. In years when beetle populations are very high, noticeable defoliation may occur because adults will consume a small amount of insecticide tainted leaves before they are killed. Treat foliage and flowers thoroughly. For optimal control, apply in the late afternoon when beetles are most active.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">Several other insecticides can be used for Japanese beetle control including those used for codling moth and apple maggot control like acetamaprid. There are others like Sevin, but I do not recommend the use of Sevin since it is toxic to bees and to beneficial insects and can act like a fruit thinner on your fruit, causing you to lose your fruit in excessive heat. Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Figure 3). This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjeJwvGd3LRLt8WDf3o_M4DnoNSu6mnLj1nBMqf8cyTZhWVzq22V7Tk2vE-MxhIHdJmQ_GqoLezcs1KjVFyozm7JpolDM_9-i0q_OJfjjpPrg0bsMt4its3_PBpdTrxlNTsMzcLRtF3S4/s1000/US-Ortho-Insect-Killer-Tree-And-Shrub-Concentrate-0345410-Main-Xlg.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="515" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjeJwvGd3LRLt8WDf3o_M4DnoNSu6mnLj1nBMqf8cyTZhWVzq22V7Tk2vE-MxhIHdJmQ_GqoLezcs1KjVFyozm7JpolDM_9-i0q_OJfjjpPrg0bsMt4its3_PBpdTrxlNTsMzcLRtF3S4/w103-h200/US-Ortho-Insect-Killer-Tree-And-Shrub-Concentrate-0345410-Main-Xlg.png" width="103" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">I have been informed by Ortho that their Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Spray has been discontinued, although there may be several retailers that have inventory on hand. They have replaced this product with two new products, </span><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDfP1uip13_lHiBdVxlcRMMfdbAEafR318RsUfXkwDa2Mljq-1eSrFdpBGOXy9fJzq-0mx1ORvDJhllnpAUhO4LN5Dm0oZMX-zjcI0H5CX_h6H5T0LnXcCbmY87Y509IJapJRQOf7TpweZ/s800/042431010_0.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="416" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDfP1uip13_lHiBdVxlcRMMfdbAEafR318RsUfXkwDa2Mljq-1eSrFdpBGOXy9fJzq-0mx1ORvDJhllnpAUhO4LN5Dm0oZMX-zjcI0H5CX_h6H5T0LnXcCbmY87Y509IJapJRQOf7TpweZ/w104-h200/042431010_0.png" width="104" /></a><br /><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/garden/ortho-tree-shrub-fruit-tree-spray-concentrate" style="height: 48px;">Ortho® Tree & Shrub Fruit Tree Spray Concentrate</a> which is Pyrethrin and Neem Oil and </span><br /><a href="https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/garden/ortho-insect-killer-tree-shrub-concentrate" style="height: 48px;">Ortho® Insect Killer Tree & Shrub Concentrate</a> which is Spinosad. The Pyrethrin/Neem Oil product will work well on Japanese Beetle, but the Spinosad product is not as effective.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">If you do choose to use chemical controls make sure that the plant you are applying to is listed on the label as well as Japanese Beetles. If controlling Japanese Beetles on food crops such brambles or apples – make sure to follow the harvest-restriction date on the label. Always READ and FOLLOW the label and do not apply at rates higher than listed.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">For further reading on Japanese Beetle, refer to this article by</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> </span>Rufus Isaacs and John Wise from Michigan Sate University: <a href="https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/managing_japanese_beetles_in_fruit_crops" target="_blank">Managing Japanese Beetles in Fruit Crops</a>. ________________________________________ </span><time datetime="2011-07-12"></time></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></div>Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-2856772618615955162021-05-26T16:22:00.003-05:002021-05-26T16:22:55.894-05:00Protecting Your Apples From Secondary Apple Scab<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Season-long control of apple scab is very difficult if primary apple scab infections develop. Primary scab infections appear with brown puffy like lesions on the top side of the leaf (A) and </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">as mold like lesions on the bottom of a leaf (B)</span>.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEherx5rBn77LlG4xDPNF2w-KLWZqbA_2mdScZrdfHPRbdrRn6ap3hDF7I4HZA1usaq3b8Q9w-ebdC_l58MycdEEtBRhqNlQ8IuqZO2VI1um1r2sFnEE5q9xsEH_pMBAf4gNDh4vdARrr0gr/s904/AppleScab02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Apple Scab Lesions" border="0" data-original-height="318" data-original-width="904" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEherx5rBn77LlG4xDPNF2w-KLWZqbA_2mdScZrdfHPRbdrRn6ap3hDF7I4HZA1usaq3b8Q9w-ebdC_l58MycdEEtBRhqNlQ8IuqZO2VI1um1r2sFnEE5q9xsEH_pMBAf4gNDh4vdARrr0gr/w400-h141/AppleScab02.jpg" title="FIG. 1" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Fig. 1</b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b> </b><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">These primary lesions produce secondary inoculum placing fruit at risk for secondary, conidial infections (Fig. 2). Once the primary ascospores have matured at least 95%, and are possibly depleted, we will have to continue to monitor scab infection events and maintain spray coverage accordingly for at least 14 more days, if not longer, if we we have found primary lesions, to protect from secondary lesions like those in Fig. 2 on McIntosh and any McIntosh hybrids like Cortland and Empire. If you have seen lesions like those in Fig. 1 or Fig. 2, on your trees or on your fruit, then you will now need to protect the rest of your clean from secondary lesions. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jE1vpDjxfSDNQGT_yju3235zWXpmpMVY3VChiRWlAxtdTc4-LX6UVGEuin-HCMipLHlQLYIHbdl8WYF0DbZogO5VbqaMO9VWYGEiaQIErToifucCznVbwom9iTtTx_Il513ZzAvgmKYl/s1600/scab_fruit_03.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="5" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jE1vpDjxfSDNQGT_yju3235zWXpmpMVY3VChiRWlAxtdTc4-LX6UVGEuin-HCMipLHlQLYIHbdl8WYF0DbZogO5VbqaMO9VWYGEiaQIErToifucCznVbwom9iTtTx_Il513ZzAvgmKYl/s320/scab_fruit_03.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Fig. 2</b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The best product for protecting your fruit is Captan, a contact protectant. And that means that your trees will need to be sprayed with Captan at the full labelled rate prior to any rain event to protect your fruit. If there are no rain events between sprays, a single contact protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's labeled information. You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event when using only a protectant. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to reapply as soon as you can before the next rain event. <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">If no protection is available during the wetting event, then the liklihood of your fruit getting infected dramatically increases.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">As always, be sure to follow the label directions on any spray product you may use. For further information on control of apple scab, refer to:</span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.blogspot.com/2021/04/apple-scab-season-has-arrived.html" target="_blank"> <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a>http://royaloakfarmorchard.blogspot.com/2021/04/apple-scab-season-has-arrived.html</a></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use</i></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span>of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not</i></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i> constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm. </i></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>People using spray products assume responsibility for their use</i></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i> in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer for that product. </i></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-63369097484380247202021-05-18T18:04:00.000-05:002021-05-18T18:04:07.759-05:00Codling Moth Have Arrived <br />
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">To determine when flight begins for codling moth, commercial growers make use of pheromone traps. Once moths have been trapped for two consecutive days in a row, a <b>biofix</b> is set that initiates the beginning of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Growing_degree_day">growing-degree-day</a> calculations. We know that at approximately 100 degree days after the biofix date codling moths begin to lay eggs and those eggs begin to hatch at approximately 250 degree days after biofix. It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for codling moth so they do not damage fruit. Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch (larval stage) should make an application of an insecticide at 250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps. Here is a </span></span></span><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/CM_GDD_Model.pdf" target="_blank">Detailed Growing Degree <span style="color: #274e13;">D</span>ay Model for Codling Moth</a>.</span></span></span> </span></span></span><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">We have now established a <b>biofix</b> for CM for this spring and it is May 17. Since codling moths usually do not fly on nights when the temperature is below about 60 degrees, and the predicted lows for the next week are above 60 degrees, I think this biofix is going to hold for this spring.</span></span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">You may a</span></span></span>pply insecticides that need to be present before egg laying at about 50-75 DD or you may apply insecticides that target early egg laying period at 100-200 DD. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Since the biofix date, we have accumulated approximately 10 DD, but with the projected hot temperatures for the coming week, we will have to keep a close eye on the degree days for the first application of an ovicide. It will soon be time time for the home grower to apply a spray to target early egg laying.</span> </span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">For the home orchardist who does not have the benefit of a weather station or other means to calculate degree days, a simple <a href="https://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages_Spray_Guide.pdf" target="_blank">tree growth stage</a> time table can be followed. Codling moths usually start flying at bloom time or just after bloom time at petal fall and at approximately the same time as plum curculio. Eggs laid by these moths begin to hatch about two weeks after petal fall, depending on the weather. You can apply the first codling moth spray at this time, about two weeks after petal fall, to prevent larvae from entering the fruit. Because most insecticide residues last 7 to 10 days and moths are continuously present throughout the summer, apply a spray every 7 to 10 days to prevent later broods of codling moth larvae from entering apple and pear fruits. If using a natural product like Spinosad, then spray after every rain due to wash off. Always follow the label directions of any spray you may use.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Several insecticides can be used for codling moth control including <i><b>acetmaprid</b></i> and/or <b>s<i>pinosad</i></b>.<b> </b> Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Insect Killer. This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, and is also available in a concentrate containing .5% acetamiprid. Acetamiprid is a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact. They are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the entire plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects once it is dry. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWwH_ogMwl7VMaImCcUNoeoPUhk9z6KAZGTQyTqVdQkJ7_xeVsHwy-PglmaPMplP5MtnycGJqvMC6w5s4ertCWKlb7k6f1zCAV4s-O-sK5AOPkEj8nRs6Q7Nr060s54nvmQ_T1wMB4ltU/s1600/dead_bug_brew.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWwH_ogMwl7VMaImCcUNoeoPUhk9z6KAZGTQyTqVdQkJ7_xeVsHwy-PglmaPMplP5MtnycGJqvMC6w5s4ertCWKlb7k6f1zCAV4s-O-sK5AOPkEj8nRs6Q7Nr060s54nvmQ_T1wMB4ltU/s200/dead_bug_brew.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">An all natural approach is also available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew. Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening. </span></span></span><br />
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</span></span></span> <span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Both of the above products will kill Codling Moth larvae and need to be sprayed just prior to the emergence of the larvae, which is between 100 to 250 DD after biofix. Since we are not yet at or near 100 DD after biofix, your trees can be sprayed in about 7 to 10 days, depending on the amount of rain that may fall at night between now and then. Typically after 1" of rain, these sprays will have been washed off and will need to be sprayed again to be effective.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y" target="_blank" title="http://nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets/treefruit/pests/cm/cm.asp">https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf</a></span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth" target="_blank" title="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth">http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 195.315px; text-align: left; top: 1148.17px; transform: scaleX(1.00104);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 196.539px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px; transform: scaleX(1.00159);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.</i></span></div>
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<div style="font-family: serif; left: 306.287px; top: 1197.5px; transform: scaleX(0.992161);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>People using spray products assume responsibility for their use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 702.862px; top: 1219.17px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</i></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-31302597405380388832021-05-11T13:30:00.005-05:002021-05-11T13:30:37.866-05:00Time to Plan For Plum Curculio <h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plum Curculio Ovipositing Egg</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">With apple scab season in our midst, and petal fall coming to an end, it is time to turn our attention to several insect pests. Plum curculio (PC) is one of the most difficult insect pests to contain. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">They enter the orchard from the perimeter after t</span>he adults pass the winter hidden under leaves, along fence rows, in brush piles, rock walls and in other protected places. In spring when the weather warms up (mean temperature 60°F. or maximum temperature above 75°F.), about the same time apples are blooming, the adults become active. The adult plum curculio beetles, pictured to the left, emerge right around or just after petal fall, to feed on apple buds, flowers, leaves and young fruit. The duration of full bloom to petal fall is usually about 5 to 10 days. From petal fall to fruit set is generally another 5 to 10 days, depending on temperatures. Once the fruit sets, female beetles cut holes in the young fruit and deposit one egg in each cavity. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">These sites, called oviposition stings, are easily identified by their crescent shaped cuts. Unlike codling moth, the larvae of plum curculio rarely cause damage to the fruit. The fruit is primarily damaged superficially by the egg-laying and feeding by the adults. These "stings" will cork over and cause an indentation in the fruit as it matures making it look deformed and unsightly.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fY6kQ8od4g0gLNClnoCO25NKy0yhfjONjQYcCl77PDoZJ2hG50vfqpq7tkkhapVxTUZul9oyttsnpM7IdxT3NgY43_N6Md11fOYOpFvaejvXt9n23pTs2vFMU-ZmQ17qpJqKqqw6lmC1/s1600/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="105" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fY6kQ8od4g0gLNClnoCO25NKy0yhfjONjQYcCl77PDoZJ2hG50vfqpq7tkkhapVxTUZul9oyttsnpM7IdxT3NgY43_N6Md11fOYOpFvaejvXt9n23pTs2vFMU-ZmQ17qpJqKqqw6lmC1/s200/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" width="90" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">The question then becomes, how do we control them?? Pesticide application at this time is very important for plum curculio control. To prevent fruit drop, and due to toxicity to bees if there are still blooms on the trees, do not use carbaryl (Sevin®) or any <span class="st"><i>pyrethrin</i></span> based spray as these are highly toxic to honey bees and other pollinators as well as any beneficial insects. Any other pesticides should be applied int he evening when the honey bees have returned tot heor hives. For home growers, an acetamiprid spray such as Ortho® Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer Ready-Spray is a deterrent. If no blooms are present on any trees, a pyrethrin based spray can be used as a deterrent, even though there may be no fruit. Picking up and disposing of any fallen fruit will reduce problems with plum curculio, other insects, and many plant diseases. For conventional growers, Avaunt or Assail are two choices you might use, based on your codling moth protocol and your apple maggot protocol.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">For a pure organic spray, the two most frequently used insecticides are Surround® and Pyganic®, both certified organic. The organic products may need to be sprayed multiple times for complete control at 7 to 10 day intervals or after any rain. And, as always, follow all label directions on any spray product. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">For a complete Fact Sheet on Plum Curculio, consult the <a href="http://hdl.handle.net/1813/43118" target="_blank">Cornell University Plum Curculio Fact Sheet </a>and for an in depth look at this pest.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">__________________________________________</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-72119240629574858042021-04-26T17:55:00.004-05:002021-04-27T17:32:29.974-05:00Apple Scab Season Has Arrived<div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Based on our NEWA (</span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Network for Environment and Weather Applications) Apple Scab Model, we have had multiple scab infection events beginning March 23 with spore maturity being very low (see chart below). But, with the first infection period, even though leaf tissues had not formed yet, the scab season has officially begun! With no leaf tissue showing prior to green tip, any previous infection period would have no immediate effect on the leaf tissue, but we now know that there are spores out there. Since we had our copper spray put on right at green tip the evening of April 7 and 8, we were protected from the infection once the spores began to mature. With spore maturity and discharge being very low, the risk is also very low, but we still need to be protected because any high temperature day can cause the spores to mature very quickly. </span></span></span></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span><br />
</div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCKvoEUY99cTzVXNk0OgrjVANkQJ9Tfom0mS2Iw0hvfnuHpHBlVzdCt5vcmv-F0uoV9KPwJbg4u4lUH6xjpqOqjmUsDB9rF8BaHm8eL8TcqdE2GTucChmM06qOLp5lph0kSDar_sL5rc8/s638/2021.04.26-17_29_51.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Apple Scab Infection Periods" border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="638" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCKvoEUY99cTzVXNk0OgrjVANkQJ9Tfom0mS2Iw0hvfnuHpHBlVzdCt5vcmv-F0uoV9KPwJbg4u4lUH6xjpqOqjmUsDB9rF8BaHm8eL8TcqdE2GTucChmM06qOLp5lph0kSDar_sL5rc8/w400-h395/2021.04.26-17_29_51.png" title="Scab Infection Periods" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-A-wgdSf2eQ3iRyss1S6ILsuaN2imejvolFabYWmcqyBA5lHH4KN7oSBetO50pkT-_SHjv0D7-tZjd0uy2i-bK-cBkEsGyOZCYsVenyJYnll8oKdncxT6MvQEzAk07unjeyizfIDt100k/s639/infection_periods_2021.04.26-17_31_45.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Apple Scab Infection Events" border="0" data-original-height="172" data-original-width="639" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-A-wgdSf2eQ3iRyss1S6ILsuaN2imejvolFabYWmcqyBA5lHH4KN7oSBetO50pkT-_SHjv0D7-tZjd0uy2i-bK-cBkEsGyOZCYsVenyJYnll8oKdncxT6MvQEzAk07unjeyizfIDt100k/w400-h108/infection_periods_2021.04.26-17_31_45.png" title="Scab Infection Events" width="400" /></a></span></span></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Ascospores mature as spring progresses with a few ascospores usually
maturing by bud break (green tip). The proportion of ascospores maturing
progresses slowly until about the tight cluster stage of blossom
development. From tight cluster through bloom the percentage of mature
ascospores rapidly increases with most ascospores matured by the end of
bloom. In the chart below, we cab see that the ascospore maturity level is still quite low. <br /></span></span></span></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span><br />
</div><div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3fCGCQGlkQboEjd1Rinp5dAjpPpWti3TQaDbGuadv4a9NaY2raJjPN6oHKUo0m0F4Am1gzSy7Fx-WSwudTnC9hIS0agNYSruvPI_l_mpgmU0kFynpmLfmQeQyNP70F2nh5cD2Oyi78ZL/s634/ascospore_maturity_2021.04.26-17_39_51.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Ascospore Maturity" border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="634" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3fCGCQGlkQboEjd1Rinp5dAjpPpWti3TQaDbGuadv4a9NaY2raJjPN6oHKUo0m0F4Am1gzSy7Fx-WSwudTnC9hIS0agNYSruvPI_l_mpgmU0kFynpmLfmQeQyNP70F2nh5cD2Oyi78ZL/w400-h208/ascospore_maturity_2021.04.26-17_39_51.png" title="Ascospore Maturity" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Unusual weather conditions may contribute to significant ascospore discharges earlier than or later than the model predicts, and for that reason, we want to be sure we have a protective cover spray on the trees.. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />Mature
ascospores begin to discharge into the air within 30 minutes during
periods of rain. When rainfall begins at night, discharge may be delayed
until daybreak. Ascospore discharge usually peaks from pink through
bloom, and nearly all ascospores have been discharged within 1 or 2
weeks after petal fall. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Copper has been shown to be a protectant against scab on the tissue that has been covered, but not on any new tissue that would have grown since that copper spray was put on. If no copper spray has been put on your trees as of today, and you have not put any other protectant on like Captan or Mancozeb, you still have time to get an </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="st"><i>eradicant fungicide</i></span> put on your trees in the form of Immunox, which has a 72 to 96 hour reach back ability. That means that you have up to 72 to 96 hours to get a spray on which will still be effective against any scab infection event 72 to 96 hours previous. Immunox is a xylum mobile fungicide which means </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">when applied to leaves it will move throughout the leaves it was deposited on but will not move out of that leaf (</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span id="DeltaPlaceHolderMain"><span class="ms-rteCustom-EdCtrDOI">McGrath, M.T. 2004. What are Fungicides. <i>The Plant Health Instructor</i>. DOI: 10.1094/PHI-I-2004-0825-01. Updated 2016.)</span></span> </span> <br /></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages.pdf" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Tree Phenology" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiXXaWC_27LIbEVoqiIG1OjaHymYyXJLAMRP5BCqvGsTRVCbwg7OzKm-eCgsZjErwwjTC1Vy49PBcU8uJ6N4SEZseyhEY90TOUEeTNGFth_A6zng5bGI-ZM02P6xxIMG8FaWx0akrsrkoH/s200/apple_growth_stages_01.jpg" title="Tree Phenology" width="152" /></a><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Spray_Guide.pdf" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Spray Guide" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nclwUTB7oTaKFt4J4zMoFbheZ60XcEC-82ZVI7o0xEiY0-uVxGlTw8pp-0omG-7Url774y-dPktXpb_TMIa6YvzCDv534D_RBWBs1SDmGzip5WuNxvq3s1tOxQQLHRAHcMzOq4_siciF/s200/apple_spray_guide.jpg" title="Spray Guide" width="154" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">For the home grower who may not have a weather station or scab model to help predict the apple scab infection periods, monitoring for apple scab can be quite complicated. But there is an alternative. Unless wetness periods are being monitored as outlined in the section above, you can simply apply protective or eradicant fungicides at regular intervals beginning with green tip. Spraying should be done every 7 to 10 days, depending on the number of rain events between sprays. If there are no rain events between sprays, a single protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's label directions. You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event if you are going to use only a protectant. A good protectant is Captan or Mancozeb. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to keep an eradicant on hand like a myclobutanil, which is available as Spectracide Immunox, which I mention above. </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A protectant like Captan has to be applied prior to a rain event. If no protection is available during the wetting event, then only an eradicant like Immunox can be applied that has a reach back of 72 to 96 hours as I have stated above. That means that it can still have an effect on the scab pathogen for up to 96 hours after a wetting event, although it is a good practice to use the shorter 72 hours.. A good option is to actually use both a protectant and an erdicant at the same time, like Captan mixed with Immunox, which will give you both protection and eradicant action after a wetting event. Be sure to monitor wetness periods throughout the spring to insure that trees are always adequately protected. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-size: normal;">But, regardless of
the type of mobility that a fungicide possesses, no fungicide is
effective after the development of visible disease symptoms. For that
reason, timely fungicide application before establishment of the disease
is important for optimal disease management.<i><b><br /></b></i></span></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: normal;">_____________________________________________________________</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: normal;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<br />Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-23885730696171414392021-04-17T16:05:00.000-05:002021-04-17T16:05:36.385-05:00Apple Scab Season Has Begun<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRdz-US6Q51Uu04GRXZkmvU1x9x30nLWyts5SpEfvcJUixpoVo4NJXfsKKSimQJuslNHmSPIfNGURMbBNEt2gb79f4WdONqWRFxDsqU-fP_IAUka_RL4pqcfjohnGE7W37VeiPeNuz_3cy/s1600/apple_scab.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Apple Scab" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRdz-US6Q51Uu04GRXZkmvU1x9x30nLWyts5SpEfvcJUixpoVo4NJXfsKKSimQJuslNHmSPIfNGURMbBNEt2gb79f4WdONqWRFxDsqU-fP_IAUka_RL4pqcfjohnGE7W37VeiPeNuz_3cy/s640/apple_scab.jpg" title="Apple Scab" width="280" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">We are now officially emerging into the apple scab season as 1/4" and 1/2" green leaf tissue is seen on the apple trees. In some cases, due to our uncertain weather pattern, some trees are still at 1/4" and others are near 1/2" green and even tight cluster, but as long as any leaf tissue is exposed, there is a chance for primary scab to set in. </span>Apple scab is the most prevalent and most damaging disease to apples we have in the Midwest and pretty much all apple growing locations east of the Rocky Mountains. At this point, scab sprays should be applied according to the <a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Spray_Guide.pdf" target="_blank">Apple Spray Guide</a> found in <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/managing_pests_home_fruit_plantings.pdf" target="_blank">"Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings"</a>. In the spring, once temperatures rise above the 42 degree or so mark, apple scab fungal spores can germinate in water on the surface of apple tree leaves and eventually, on the fruit itself. The water or moisture that is on the leaves is termed "leaf wetness". The spores will germinate once the leaves are wet for a certain period of time at temperatures above 42 degrees. On the leaves, olive green to brown spots appear on the site of the infection. If the leaves have not been protected from this "primary" scab infection, the spores will mature and produce more spores during "leaf wetness" periods and move onto the apples where they form a "scab" like lesion, if the fruit is not protected. We call the lesions on the apples "secondary" scab. With enough moisture (leaf wetness), the cycle continues throughout the growing season and destroys the crop. Each leaf wetness event at the proper temperature that occurs during the early growing season is called and infection period.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Managing Apple Scab</span></h3>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The apple scab fungus survives in dead leaves on the ground and over winters there on the leaves. A lack of spring rains can reduce its importance, but as a rule, apple scab requires yearly spray treatments. And, ornamental crab apple trees are also hosts. As plant parts mature and the weather gets warmer, susceptibility to this disease decreases, usually in late June, but pinpoint scab can occur during extended periods of moisture during summer. The main objective in scab management is the reduction or prevention of primary infections in spring. Extensive primary infections result in poor fruit set and make scab control during the season more difficult. If primary infections are successfully controlled, secondary infections will not be serious. The key to success in scab control is exact timing and full spray coverage. Wet periods, temperature, and relative humidity are important factors. Because scab control often is part of a combination treatment aimed at other diseases and insect control, choice of materials and timing are also extremely important.</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">How Can an Infection Period be Determined?</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Apple scab infection periods can be predicted based on temperature and moisture (leaf wetness) conditions. The Mills Table below, derived from research by Mills and La Plante, gives hours needed at various temperatures under constantly wet conditions for primary spores (ascospores) to cause infection in spring. This system for forecasting scab and timing sprays has been validated for apple-growing regions in the Midwest.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYRQfdpXgk0HhHsslu9nTGzbAjovjQY9mLnUkzuqdcWMbmgB5s3c6x8kNR5OpErTv8OpKu1jPPoxAPRHriKTO31wWv5etCqVHc4Z-8MaV3jR5VOfaCV33y97JWHkVopp3CmvOJJSrzttU/s1600/mills_table.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mills Table" border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYRQfdpXgk0HhHsslu9nTGzbAjovjQY9mLnUkzuqdcWMbmgB5s3c6x8kNR5OpErTv8OpKu1jPPoxAPRHriKTO31wWv5etCqVHc4Z-8MaV3jR5VOfaCV33y97JWHkVopp3CmvOJJSrzttU/s400/mills_table.jpg" title="Mills Table" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><b>How to use the table</b>: Figure the average temperature for the rain period by adding the maximum and the minimum temperatures and dividing by 2. If wet periods are intermittent, total their duration until there is a period of at least 6 hours of continuous dryness. You will need a wetness recorder to do this efficiently. If the dry period is sunny, and drying is quick and thorough, it is assumed that 6 hours after the trees have dried, the danger is passed. If drying is slow, and humidity remains high, then the 6-hour dry period is extended by a safety margin of 3 to 4 hours. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">To Spray or Not To Spray</span></h3>
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages.pdf" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Tree Phenology" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiXXaWC_27LIbEVoqiIG1OjaHymYyXJLAMRP5BCqvGsTRVCbwg7OzKm-eCgsZjErwwjTC1Vy49PBcU8uJ6N4SEZseyhEY90TOUEeTNGFth_A6zng5bGI-ZM02P6xxIMG8FaWx0akrsrkoH/s200/apple_growth_stages_01.jpg" title="Tree Phenology" width="152" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Spray_Guide.pdf" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Spray Guide" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nclwUTB7oTaKFt4J4zMoFbheZ60XcEC-82ZVI7o0xEiY0-uVxGlTw8pp-0omG-7Url774y-dPktXpb_TMIa6YvzCDv534D_RBWBs1SDmGzip5WuNxvq3s1tOxQQLHRAHcMzOq4_siciF/s200/apple_spray_guide.jpg" title="Spray Guide" width="154" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Monitoring for apple scab can be quite complicated for the home grower. But there is an alternative. Unless wetness periods are being monitored as outlined in the section above, you can simply apply protective or eradicant fungicides at regular intervals beginning with green tip. Spraying should be done every 7 to 10 days, depending on the number of rain events between sprays. If there are no rain events between sprays, a single protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's label directions. You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event if you are going to use only a protectant. A good protectant is Captan or Mancozeb. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to keep an eradicant on hand like a myclobutanil, which is available as Spectracide Immunox. <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A protectant like Captan has to be applied prior to a rain event.<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> If no protection is available during the wetting event, then only an eradicant like <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Immunox</span> can be applied that has a reach back of at least 48 hours. That means that it can still have an effect on the scab pathogen for up to 48 hours after a wetting event. A good option is to actually use both a protectant and an erdicant at the same time, like Captan mixed with Immunox, which will give you both protection and eradicant action after a wetting event. </span></span>Be sure to monitor wetness periods throughout the spring to insure that trees are always adequately protected. </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">More About Fungicides</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Fungicides can be contact fungicides or penetrant fungicides and non-systemic, locally systemic or systemic. Mobility describes fungicide movement after it is applied to a plant. To understand differences in mobility, it’s important to know the difference between absorption and adsorption.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Fungicides that can be taken up by the plant are absorbed. Fungicides that adhere in an extremely thin layer to plant surfaces are adsorbed. Because fungicides are either adsorbed or absorbed, they have two basic forms of mobility: <b>contact </b>and <b>penetrant</b>. Regardless of the type of mobility that a fungicide possesses, no fungicide is effective after the development of visible disease symptoms. For that reason, timely fungicide application before establishment of the disease is important for optimal disease management.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Contact</b> fungicides are adsorbed and considered non-systemic. They are susceptible to being washed away by rain or irrigation, and most (but not all) do not protect parts that grow and develop after the product is applied. Captan is one such contact fungicide.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Penetrant</b> fungicides are absorbed, so they move into plant tissues, and penetrate beyond the cuticle and into the treated leaf tissue itself. There are various kinds of penetrants, characterized by their ability to spread when absorbed by the plant. They can be locally systemic, penetrating leaf tissue only or systemic, moving beyond the leaf tissue. Systemic fungicides can be further subdivided based on the direction and degree of movement once they have been absorbed and translocated inside the plant. Immunox is a penetrant that is xylem mobile, therefor, not totally systemic or amphimobile.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">©Janna Beckerman, Department of Botany and Plant Pathology, Purdue University</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Xylem-mobile</b> fungicides (also called acropetal penetrants ) move upward from the point of entry through the plant’s xylem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Amphimobile</b> fungicides (also called true systemic penetrants) move throughout the plant through its xylemand phloem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Locally systemic</b> fungicides have limited translocation from the application site</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Translaminar</b> fungicides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact, but are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">In summary, systemic fungicides <span class="vm-hook-outer vm-hook-default"><span class="vm-hook" style="border-color: transparent transparent rgb(0, 153, 0); color: #009900;">work</span><span class="vm-hook-icon" style="display: inline-block;"></span></span> by becoming absorbed into the plant tissues and protecting the plant from fungal diseases as well as ridding the plant of any existing diseases. Some systemic fungicides are locally systemic, meaning that the chemicals aren't transmitted very far from the application site on the plant. Other systemic fungicides are applied to and absorbed up through the roots, moving throughout the rest of the plant. Eradicant fungicides can have systemic action, depending on which chemistry is chosen. Some are translocated within the host tissue and are able to kill the scab fungus up to a certain length of time after infection occurs. This is called the kickback or reachback period. Because kickback periods may change, always check the label for the most recent information. Kickback is calculated from the <i>beginning</i> of an infection period, as determined by the Mills and La Plante table.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">________________________________________________________________</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-19702204279337449172021-04-06T18:38:00.000-05:002021-04-06T18:38:18.980-05:00Spring Spraying Protocol Begins!<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">If you have not done so already, it's time to begin spraying a dormant oil and copper spray for your fruit trees! The apple trees are at green tip in the orchard here at Royal Oak Farm Orchard in northern Illinois. We may green tip fully in the next day or so with the daytime temperatures, but those night projections in the 50's will push the tree growth to full green tip and 1/4" green by the end of the week. It also indicates that just as soon as the nights stay above freezing, the trees will pop and we will be moving into apple scab season. </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">So it is not too late to do a dormant oil and copper spray if you have not already. We complete our spray on tonight, April 6, which is 4 days before last season's spray. </span></span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">The oil (mineral oil) is sprayed for mites, scale and aphids because spring is the time to cover those eggs at the base of the buds before they begin to hatch. The oil smothers the eggs and they suffocate before hatching. Below you can see aphid eggs that were laid last fall.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXB2ZAkI_V17fHIquQtmUc0eLsQw0zAOOgaktZiUsgpeA5NgrOvGxNQHwk8y7IzKGUNcumn78jJwF-trFqTIWk6nvruipFa4IWlvsmaF0mpA4cv-Tpi4bzj6u96jGHF92r-Peg5KOySV1/s1600/aphid_eggs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Aphid Eggs" border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXB2ZAkI_V17fHIquQtmUc0eLsQw0zAOOgaktZiUsgpeA5NgrOvGxNQHwk8y7IzKGUNcumn78jJwF-trFqTIWk6nvruipFa4IWlvsmaF0mpA4cv-Tpi4bzj6u96jGHF92r-Peg5KOySV1/s320/aphid_eggs.jpg" title="Aphid Eggs" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Copper is also sprayed at this time for control of fire blight and to aid in the suppression of apple scab pathogens, scab being a severe diseases that can destroy a crop, and fire blight even more severe, which can destroy trees. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;">We also have to be aware of the spring critical temperatures as the buds progress in development. Each spring I post the spring critical temperatures chart from Utah State to help you determine at what stage your fruit trees may be at as spring progresses. For those who may have ,missed my last post, here are the charts again.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3KsOW75-Lo3NNeYctoOjE5kk8LnlAKhNxEfv7Gi0PJeRx-IjR_P3koV3TZD2QQxPBGsE8dmIqLDN7xWrNvSFG_XjtB3-fvrhFLtBAXKstFHkxaM-2PqWcXA0vwwukrb8Fuscgjg1jYA_/s1600/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Critical Spring Temperature Apple Pear" border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3KsOW75-Lo3NNeYctoOjE5kk8LnlAKhNxEfv7Gi0PJeRx-IjR_P3koV3TZD2QQxPBGsE8dmIqLDN7xWrNvSFG_XjtB3-fvrhFLtBAXKstFHkxaM-2PqWcXA0vwwukrb8Fuscgjg1jYA_/s400/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1.jpg" title="Critical Spring Temperature Apple Pear" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBz4yDbWdHrDzgV01496Hfw7K087N8yxjcEaQBObbQMJIbeY2Q_HPAl1RGp3qgztrKXm_-poNEu-19IMoDfq2FfRPb7csLmRw7CsiQiI16jK1g0bNTBlmzzswxzp6cha76Fw9OcywPRDJ/s1600/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Critical Spring Temperatures Stone Fruit" border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBz4yDbWdHrDzgV01496Hfw7K087N8yxjcEaQBObbQMJIbeY2Q_HPAl1RGp3qgztrKXm_-poNEu-19IMoDfq2FfRPb7csLmRw7CsiQiI16jK1g0bNTBlmzzswxzp6cha76Fw9OcywPRDJ/s400/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2.jpg" title="Critical Spring Temperatures Stone Fruit" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Ever wonder how the fruit trees know when it's time to come out of dormancy? Well, the trees won't come out of dormancy until they have endured a certain amount of time with temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the number of chill hours they need is achieved and temperatures warm in the spring, the trees come out of dormancy and resume their normal growth. The number of hours required at cooler temperatures is known as the chill requirement or chill hours. Most apple varieties require 400-1000 chill hours, so most of the trees in our area have met their requirement and will come out of dormancy just as soon as temperatures warm. Growth resumption can be predicted by tracking what we call growth units. Growth units are the number of degree hours above 41 F. For example, if the temperature averages 51 F for and hour, then 10 degree units are accumulated. Bud break initiates after approx 3710 F growth units accumulate, and progresses depending on the temperature. We do our dormant oil and copper spray generally around April 10. The best time to spray is at silver tip....when the buds have that silvery/gray tinted fuzz on them. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">You can use the development chart below to determine the growth stage your trees.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Tree_Care_Package.pdf" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-b6M8n8o9fUjUPS_7YjFDK7fdyDFIBQqXsCyfE29i5t78AvfVQPqaxADxK9LVJabhQrvKw4muDIQY-Gesr6J8Zb_dEE55ZLrZk9zCBRD0jAlA3LPq8tkynMHvDLXexScsOt8LF7UsNrXg/s640/apple_growth_stages_01.jpg" width="489" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">As I mentioned earlier, now is the time to do our fire blight/scab copper spray and our horticultural oil spray. We want to get the copper on the trees before they reach full 1/4” green and the horticultural oil can be sprayed at the same time in a tank mix or done as a dormant,silver tip,green tip, or 1/4” green spray. In other words, your oil can be sprayed at any time from silver tip through 1/4” green providing you are using a mineral oil based product such as Superior Oil 70sec or an off the shelf Horticultural Oil such as <a href="http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=210" target="_blank">Bonide’s All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil</a>. Your copper spray should be done before the trees reach 1/4” green to avoid any phytotoxicity issues. For your copper spray you can also use an off the shelf brand such as <a href="http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=775" target="_blank">Bonide Copper Fungicide RTU</a> (Ready to Use). Both of these products should be available at your local hardware store or garden center of from Amazon.com.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><i><b>A dormant oil and copper spray should not be done until we get at least a 24 hour period that is above freezing at night.</b></i> The oil cannot freeze on the trees, but it pretty much dries within about 24 hours. Once dry, there is no chance of it freezing. We usually get at least one 24 hour period above freezing at night before the trees get to 1/4" green. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">This “window of opportunity” for dormant sprays for fruit trees depends on the bud stage of your target fruit tree. You can follow these guidelines:</span></span></div>
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<b><i>Apples: swollen bud to 1/4” green <br />
Pears: swollen bud to cluster bud <br />
Peaches/Nectarines: swollen bud to pre-bloom <br />
Apricot: before bloom</i></b></span><br />
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When applying, spray trees just until they are dripping to get good application on all the stems and crevices at the buds. If you are using horticultural oil alone, use a rate of 2% (mixed in water) for best results or follow your chosen product’s label rate. For situations where aphids have been real problems in the past, consider adding an insecticide (such as acetamiprid, etc.) to 1.5 - 2% oil or use one of the Bonide RTU (ready to use) pre-mixes for insect pests.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">For get our <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" target="_blank">Growing Guide</a> on maintaining your trees and </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><a href="http://Resources for the Home Orchard Grower" target="_blank">Resources for the Home Orchard Grower</a> of the above charts, visit our <a href="http://Resources for the Home Orchard Grower" target="_blank">Nursery Growing Guide</a> web page!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> __________________________________________</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-3110810183078269622021-03-29T17:21:00.001-05:002021-03-29T17:23:40.744-05:00Critical Spring Temperatures for Frost Damage<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Early spring is the time of the year when apple trees are beginning to wake up from their winter sleep, and is also the time for colder night temperatures that we are sure to see. It's always a good idea to revisit the critical temperatures that can cause frost or freeze damage to fruit trees, specifically apple trees. We are currently at silver tip to green tip here in northern Illinois with a forecast of night temperatures in the low 20's later in the week. Fortunately, our trees haven't progressed to far this spring, but we could see green tip next week. This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and and is dropping our temperatures the first few days of April. The early warm temperatures accelerated bud swell, and the lower temperatures that are anticipated present the threat of frost or freeze damage to new green tip leaf tissue. It seems that each spring since about 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost or freeze damage with our fruit trees. </span> </span><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKj-HmivEAN1W7FJg5ZUQf7qSUejhCbcBGzxBtoA6BLQ-swYkbrs1Mw3xDhd6d27VRFpT051YSKe4SES02ARz4_UJI7TO4SiF-EH1FHsSLjfhpY3cnqmU1wa6BquAZfvHm07eUsTChdtny/s1600/apple_bloom_frost_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKj-HmivEAN1W7FJg5ZUQf7qSUejhCbcBGzxBtoA6BLQ-swYkbrs1Mw3xDhd6d27VRFpT051YSKe4SES02ARz4_UJI7TO4SiF-EH1FHsSLjfhpY3cnqmU1wa6BquAZfvHm07eUsTChdtny/s320/apple_bloom_frost_damage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="justify"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Dark brown centers and signed appearance of the petals </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">indicate that both king and side blooms were killed in a</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">freeze the morning this picture was taken. (<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Photo credit:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Mark Longstroth, <abbr title="Michigan State University">MSU</abbr> Extension)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged. As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. Freezing temperatures of 28 degrees F. will result in about a 10 percent loss and 24 F will result in a 90 percent loss, as indicated by the charts down below.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0YQy270PAVIyYd45Png7FUufjSNzgwarme3PAZL7sEi3G521T-CrXg3UkZNDIjlZrv6UDyvALqos53TaP8i-aEhiUtwCCj7mxFkzScYRlo8TahaJv6uhkhea9WDqf-FXTcjNyRFMts5A/s1600/apple_flower_freeze_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0YQy270PAVIyYd45Png7FUufjSNzgwarme3PAZL7sEi3G521T-CrXg3UkZNDIjlZrv6UDyvALqos53TaP8i-aEhiUtwCCj7mxFkzScYRlo8TahaJv6uhkhea9WDqf-FXTcjNyRFMts5A/s1600/apple_flower_freeze_damage.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The dark brown center of this apple flower indicates it was</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">killed by a freeze.<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> (Photo credit: Mark Longstroth, <abbr title="Michigan State University">MSU</abbr> Extension)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In a radiation freeze with clear, calm conditions, fruit at higher elevations or in the tops of trees will be less damaged than those at lower elevations, since colder air is more dense than warmer air and sinks to ground level, pushing the warmer air up. The percent of flowers killed in a frost may or may not relate directly to lost yield later in the season. With large-fruited fruits such as apples, peaches, plums and pears, the loss of 50 percent of the flower may not be devastating since we may only want a small percentage of the flowers to become fruit, meaning that fruit thinning may be totally unnecessary. So the stage of bud and bloom development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur. For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the <b><i><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage</a></i></b> on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below.</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div align="justify">
<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img alt="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" border="0" height="315" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/-9hNOYss_yFQ/T3uERuVikRI/AAAAAAAAAJk/Cubof4CQLxA/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="border-color: -moz-use-text-color; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" border="0" height="315" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/-YE4u9miqKuI/T3uESDikjiI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/db941-SZrlg/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="border-color: -moz-use-text-color; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline;" title="Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">(Click on the photos to download the chart in PDF format.)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring a spring frost could still be possible. Once the fruit has set, then the critical temperatures that can damage the fruit become lower. We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at over the next weeks and their susceptibility to possible freeze injury.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If we continue in a spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster, pink and bloom, the <b><i>critical temperature</i></b> rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time, which is the most critical time to get frost damage. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div><div align="justify"><br /><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">______________________________________________</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Reference
in this blog to any specific commercial product, process, or service,
or the use of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general
informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement,
recommendation, or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm, Inc.
People using such products assume responsibility for their use in
accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</span></i></span></span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-83473139150917276322021-03-15T13:52:00.006-05:002021-03-15T14:07:23.085-05:00Main Pests, Tree Growth Stages, and Spray Guide<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If you have a Home Orchard or just a few apple trees in your back yard, and if you have not thought about how to handle those pest problems you had last season yet, now is the time to actively examine a spray protocol for your fruit trees! And start right away, before it is too late and the pests have a chance to establish themselves in your trees! The question everyone needs to ask before spraying is “Do I want to spray or not?” Well, unfortunately, in northern Illinois, we have four main pests that we will almost always have to spray for. This is pretty much true for any area east of the Rocky Mountains.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The decision to spray or not depends on how much fruit loss you are willing to take. That is your threshold. If you can accept some fruit loss, then the need to spray diminishes greatly. But if you only have a few trees and some fruit damage may mean losing half your fruit, then spraying becomes more important. Let’s meet our top four pests in northern Illinois, southern Wisconsin, and in most of the states east of the Rocky Mountains.</span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Four Main Pests</b></span></span></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b> </b></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipMEy796FVq7c9fxbfVKVN_n4DcmONwVQw6YRtDBgqQc-HCuWdvcc0AuhEMGx7Rpu1-KXzJmRQ-aL96nEWjqX2viU3qaohC_bzVjt1Rg5OCJij7X9RTwTiS1yqw4btJPdwbFjqsqTkwGCs/s1600-h/Meet_Enemy%25255B1%25255D.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Meet_Enemy" border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn_41SCtyHiManDfEFAZunUPKLXPbh59pvGXTNSFbp5g-pJ4Q2e33fp0kzcKOSzbYqk4sFRaCwtu93lobv6vj_MrL0C4X2BxtTFyTlnesbgA2cE4ran70rn__IpnK7RczAA1gASR0ErAUI/?imgmax=800" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin: 5px auto;" title="Meet_Enemy" width="392" /></a> </h3>
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<br /></div>
<div align="justify">
<br /></div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The four main pests that we face in apple orchards here in our climate zone of 5/5A are <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/apple_scab_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Apple Scab Fact Sheet">apple scab</a>, <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/plum_curculio_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Plum Curculio Fact Sheet">plum curculio</a>, <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/codling_moth_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Codling Moth Fact Sheet">codling moth</a> and <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/apple_maggot_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Apple Maggot Fact Sheet">apple maggot</a>, in that order. What isn't listed here is fire blight, whihc is a devastating disease that must be sprayed for because it can wipe out entire trees in a matter of days. For more information on these and other potential apple tree pests, visit our web site <a href="http://www.royaloak.farm/growing-guide" target="_blank">Growing Guide </a>page. But how do we know when to spray for them if it is a last resort to protecting our fruit? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">All tree fruit have several distinct growth stages as the fruit matures. Knowing and identifying those growth stages is very important for the home grower because recommendations and spray timing for spray applications are linked to these specific growth stages. The chart below shows the common growth stages for apple trees. </span></div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div align="justify">
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Tree Growth Stages (Phenology)</b></span></h3>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages.pdf" target="_blank"><img alt="apple_growth_stages" border="0" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2FoQIobYk14R4KTLLwxN5jdsESWuGx0w6mp7aTasibKyHJSVpuszmt-y_79VsNJmOWA1b7Lu-LL8DLtMpDTgM4k_A16AX72epclYAG_a5lJ40W05vxGqTJXOnidrbNYoPupXzWTZfxcMK/?imgmax=800" style="border-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin: 5px auto 0px;" title="apple_growth_stages" width="403" /></a> </h3>
</div>
<div align="justify">
<br /></div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Since the average home grower does not have access to their own weather stations or degree day calculators, the fruit tree development stages play an ever greater role in pest management for the average grower. Most spray schedules (protocol) follow the tree development stages to aid in the timing of sprays so they are most effective. It is important to note that many diseases and some insects can only be controlled by spraying before they can be seen like apple scab. Spraying less frequently or at the wrong time will typically result in poor results. And, spraying more frequently will not necessarily give greater control.</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The tree developmental stages or tree phenology gives us a guide as to when to spray, but what do we spray if we have to spray? If we consult some of the various spray guides available to the home grower, we will find that most of the spray guides provide us with the tree’s development stages (phenology) and the insects or diseases that frequently occur during each of theses stages. So the tree phenology serves as timing guide when the application of a particular spray is recommended in order to control specific insects or diseases at the right time. The following spray guide for apple trees will give us the time to spray based on tree phenology, the pest to spray for and the product recommendation for that pest(s).</span></div>
<div align="justify">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div align="justify">
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Apple Spray Guide</b></span></h3>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VwXHxZuwTj4mqRDtLqgTKBuwIaqV6VoIfaECPoxtGFqs0g9HYpkLXG9QwO0U9F1RZQnGuBIo1wiLDmjArBVbX4bazhnF-fE9XDggy8DRxQQHPvfjGqi2eB-ELr_NroX6LcMPOFxVssBJ/s1600/Apple_Spray_Guide.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1320" data-original-width="1020" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VwXHxZuwTj4mqRDtLqgTKBuwIaqV6VoIfaECPoxtGFqs0g9HYpkLXG9QwO0U9F1RZQnGuBIo1wiLDmjArBVbX4bazhnF-fE9XDggy8DRxQQHPvfjGqi2eB-ELr_NroX6LcMPOFxVssBJ/s640/Apple_Spray_Guide.jpg" width="492" /></a></div>
</div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This particular spray guide is included in “<a href="https://mdc.itap.purdue.edu/item.asp?item_number=ID-146-W#.U20p_HbaEsA" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings">Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings</a>” from the Purdue University Extensions Publication web site or our <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Contact Me">web site</a> as a free download. It goes into detail as to the various products available for spraying that include both conventional and organic alternatives. The publication includes apples, pears, peach, cherry, grape, strawberry and raspberry guides as well as the phenology charts for each fruit type. For recommendations on spray products for the Home Orchard visit <a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/spray_product_descriptions.pdf" target="_blank">our spray product recommendations.</a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />
</span> <br />
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 197.165px; text-align: left; top: 1126.5px; transform: scaleX(0.989583);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 195.315px; text-align: left; top: 1148.17px; transform: scaleX(1.00104);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 196.539px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px; transform: scaleX(1.00159);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.</i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 824.455px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><br />
</i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 306.287px; top: 1197.5px; transform: scaleX(0.992161);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>People using spray products assume responsibility for their use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 702.862px; top: 1219.17px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</i></span></div>
</div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com15908 Hebron Rd, Harvard, IL 60033, USA42.4830513 -88.50751114.172817463821154 -123.663761 70.793285136178838 -53.351260999999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-62495055551325967102020-07-05T18:01:00.003-05:002020-07-05T18:25:03.799-05:00Monitoring for Apple Maggot Begins<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zbiSddkxsVz3M3pp-iMJxHe_rd9bMK7GO8-4WKyzJm-317GjLzzNVht012Riun06UlSFPUsSM0yT58NV9rKaTku4HiG6ePdqoOCj5FDTO2m9_MmmQyenpFuWi_5OZe8EhM7JmoqZQi5u/s1600/apple_maggot_male_female.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="349" data-original-width="330" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zbiSddkxsVz3M3pp-iMJxHe_rd9bMK7GO8-4WKyzJm-317GjLzzNVht012Riun06UlSFPUsSM0yT58NV9rKaTku4HiG6ePdqoOCj5FDTO2m9_MmmQyenpFuWi_5OZe8EhM7JmoqZQi5u/s200/apple_maggot_male_female.png" width="188" /></a></div>
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</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBelC3Bl9zeuGlKBCkdYJM0bk-EY9VxwlU5AnN7NjnRZr8SU05QCxCf9aP9wV7QrP5gWDqXCwOBsLxO3RLHjUflg6kgWtoiMwE1Y94OYi8kGKBDC6IQ4yJrf_qZwCCnxen4QoSkEiSP0l/s1600/ApMaggotWings.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBelC3Bl9zeuGlKBCkdYJM0bk-EY9VxwlU5AnN7NjnRZr8SU05QCxCf9aP9wV7QrP5gWDqXCwOBsLxO3RLHjUflg6kgWtoiMwE1Y94OYi8kGKBDC6IQ4yJrf_qZwCCnxen4QoSkEiSP0l/s200/ApMaggotWings.jpg" width="111" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Fig. 1</span></td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">In 2019 we trapped the first apple maggot fly on around the end of June at about 1150 Degree Days from January 1. We are at 1016 DD as of today at 5:53 PM, so it is time to get out the apple maggot traps and get them set. I set our orchard's traps a few days ago and , as of yet, have no flies trapped. It only takes one non-baited trapped fly to determine that they have arrived to the orchard! The apple maggot (AM) is native to the Midwestern US and is considered a primary pest, along with plum curculio (PC), and codling moth (CM), which have been covered in previous posts. The adult apple maggot fly resembles a small housefly in size, with a black body, eyes of dark red, with the thorax and abdomen having distinctive white or cream colored bands. The AM is distinguished from other similar, and closely related flies, like cherry fruit fly and black cherry fruit fly, by the variation in dark banding on its wings (See Fig. 1). </span> </font></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LDxEvaHYHpcvPsV1hNWpW3TrWTAbIGM5hR2nf9rs3i57zIlF9xHViA2dunkQUTs1eYqVHrODn-UgKmENpAP4WnfzRq6p80Lo46qfHgZPpg3koP5mKNsxMnEEE3gOZ9TW-FFnHPZLlKzQ/s1600/apple_maggot_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Apple Maggot damageA" border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LDxEvaHYHpcvPsV1hNWpW3TrWTAbIGM5hR2nf9rs3i57zIlF9xHViA2dunkQUTs1eYqVHrODn-UgKmENpAP4WnfzRq6p80Lo46qfHgZPpg3koP5mKNsxMnEEE3gOZ9TW-FFnHPZLlKzQ/s200/apple_maggot_damage.jpg" title="Apple Maggot damage" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Fig. 2</span></td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">The AM overwinters in the pupal stage in soil. As soil temperatures rise in early spring, development of pupae commences. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">The adult fly first emergence begins shortly thereafter (early summer, mid to late June in upper Illinois). It takes about 7 to 10 days for the female to mature enough to mate and lay eggs. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> So there is a 7 - 10 day window for spraying prior to egg laying. </span>A feeding and mating period (pre-oviposition) during this 7-10 days is followed by egg laying directly under the skin of the apple. Females may deposit eggs over an </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">approximate 30 day period laying as many as 300-500 eggs. </span></font></div><font size="3">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThAzVJxVmhXyjrqfniPR1z4y4WRhMInJ6IMIR8qQqCVAfF4xVMSk83DJVNK0JopbFvLS5gEtKRTrdsI4lditWXPA735wM3JbOLlkoco24SB_e4aAphq5bSZA9qr7NZHQZ_o6_1SvIXAPI/s1600/applemaggotfeeding.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThAzVJxVmhXyjrqfniPR1z4y4WRhMInJ6IMIR8qQqCVAfF4xVMSk83DJVNK0JopbFvLS5gEtKRTrdsI4lditWXPA735wM3JbOLlkoco24SB_e4aAphq5bSZA9qr7NZHQZ_o6_1SvIXAPI/s200/applemaggotfeeding.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Fig. 3</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> <font size="3">Egg-laying punctures cause dimples and distortion in the outer flesh of fruits. These punctures appear as pinpricks on the fruit surface. Larvae tunnel throughout the fruit leaving irregular trails.(Fig. 2) As eggs hatch, larvae funnel through fruit flesh leaving a winding brown trail.(Fig. 3) Egg laying usually ceases in early to late August; however, it may continue longer if drought conditions exist throughout August.</font></span></div>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><b><u>Monitoring For Apple Maggot</u></b></span></font> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifC6x-n7_koGBJq38yP4VHmASx7Dj-cLRCSsrPvCp9SU5geCguMI4JDS-YBL7nZXtlIwPT3SqNQxR-tROg6eqVMLAxQLuLSHLlKhhPZD0Ul9dob2BR0At6jGd5TjjEDX2gA3apjXa7hQPD/s1600/tangletrap.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifC6x-n7_koGBJq38yP4VHmASx7Dj-cLRCSsrPvCp9SU5geCguMI4JDS-YBL7nZXtlIwPT3SqNQxR-tROg6eqVMLAxQLuLSHLlKhhPZD0Ul9dob2BR0At6jGd5TjjEDX2gA3apjXa7hQPD/s200/tangletrap.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 4</td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">When monitoring for AM, the apple maggot fly tends to show a preference for golden delicious varieties, but no variety is immune from attack. Sticky red spheres are effective monitoring devices for adult AM flies (Fig. 4). Females are attracted to the sphere for mating and egg laying activities and are trapped by the sticky coating. Hang traps shortly before expected adult emergence (mid to late June in upper Illinois). First emergence may be detected by checking traps daily until the first fly is spotted on the non-baited trap. </span></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Hang the sphere in the proximity to fruit at eye level on the perimeter of the south or southeast side of the tree. Attach the ball in a sturdy stem about 1 foot above a fruit cluster of approximately 6-10, cleaning out the foliage and other fruit for at least 18 inches to sides and top of the trap so it is easily visible. The spheres attract the insects that come within a few yards of them; therefore, <b>the capture of ONE AM on any one non-baited trap at a time would indicate the need for an immediate control application. The capture of 5 flies on a baited trap would </b></span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> indicate the need for an immediate control application.</span></b> Once the pesticide is applied, AM captures are disregarded for the period during which the protective spray is effective (varies according to pesticide used).</span></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><u><b>Control for Apple Maggot</b></u></span></font></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3uoruZiD7-2-EBr8Fx9crSf1plu8NdOQ5M-R11PYoYQYVkXsFwcEbsuyUVbwDci5BKY_bjqW5xuOyleKooiPMBtLv_aKefwbwKarf66tT2w66ECACAS7m1d-R1sr5_ggTD4iiZJ9SofB/s1600/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3uoruZiD7-2-EBr8Fx9crSf1plu8NdOQ5M-R11PYoYQYVkXsFwcEbsuyUVbwDci5BKY_bjqW5xuOyleKooiPMBtLv_aKefwbwKarf66tT2w66ECACAS7m1d-R1sr5_ggTD4iiZJ9SofB/s200/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" width="90" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig 5.</td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Several insecticides can be used for apple maggot control including those used for codling moth control like and/or spinosad. Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Fig. 5). This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.</span></font></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-j-p6t-Y03rEhxWnhnPBpiVJdfskLvMf-ML_cRsSEEaRjf1s6tLLmCKu7kkA1sJ0OQ9lC9bT8Jqg8NhbLXpgcc9NSRxGfrSFQL8DAcBYaju-OH4m4Fga_MROqCuTmE6KCRZQZ09cWzg-Y/s1600/dead_bug_brew.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-j-p6t-Y03rEhxWnhnPBpiVJdfskLvMf-ML_cRsSEEaRjf1s6tLLmCKu7kkA1sJ0OQ9lC9bT8Jqg8NhbLXpgcc9NSRxGfrSFQL8DAcBYaju-OH4m4Fga_MROqCuTmE6KCRZQZ09cWzg-Y/s200/dead_bug_brew.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 6</td></tr>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">An all natural approach is available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew (Fig. 6). Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening.</span><br />
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</font><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">As always, be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.</span></font> </span></div>
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">For additional information, see the following fact sheets and guides which are available from local university extension services:</span></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><a href="http://hdl.handle.net/1813/43071" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43071/apple-maggot-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y</span></a></font></div><font size="3">
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<font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/apple-maggot">http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/apple-maggot</a></span></font></div><font size="3">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ID/ID-146-W.pdf" target="_blank">https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ID/ID-146-W.pdf</a></span></font></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><br /></span></font></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">______________________________________________</span></font><br />
<font size="2"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Reference in this blog to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm, Inc. People using such products assume responsibility for their use in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"> </span></font></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-957174160370275282020-07-01T14:24:00.001-05:002020-07-01T14:26:16.555-05:00It's July and Japanese Beetle is Beginning to Emerge<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8bBTzwKu4IsRBPu98Z_3o8IVwY1PHg2Q0IznFVtkfgJNlMUnInbnxu39g6r8ci63XnPRkm-WlfNDt-HU0YZ4QKFm5ihfQErZrdWGP7pHmApP41eZzYwNJ0CQoMOCkd99dNfXpVC7sk4T/s1600/japanese_beetle_03.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1342" data-original-width="1230" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8bBTzwKu4IsRBPu98Z_3o8IVwY1PHg2Q0IznFVtkfgJNlMUnInbnxu39g6r8ci63XnPRkm-WlfNDt-HU0YZ4QKFm5ihfQErZrdWGP7pHmApP41eZzYwNJ0CQoMOCkd99dNfXpVC7sk4T/s320/japanese_beetle_03.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Japanese Beetle emergence has begun here in Northern Illinois, but seems to be very spotty. But once it has emerged in one location, it is only a matter of time before it emerges in another. I noticed the first beetle last Monday and today they were still not in full on our Honeycrisp trees (Figure 1). Due to the large amount of carbohydrates produced by the Honeycrisp trees, which is what makes the variety so sweet, the Japanese Beetle is seemingly attracted to it just like we are! Honeycrisp seem to be the first leaves that attract them and then they move on to raspberries and several other berry varieties. </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"><u>Monitoring for Japanese Beetle</u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the soil and live from 30 to 45 days feeding on plants over a four-to-six-week period. The adults produce aggregation pheromones that attract individuals (both males and females) to the same feeding location. Adults can fly up to five miles to locate a feeding site; however, they tend to fly only short distances to feed and lay eggs. The adult beetles normally emerge during the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out that suitable food , like Honeycrisp, and begin to feed. These early arrivals then begin to release that aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults. Newly emerged females also release a sex pheromone that attracts males. After feeding and mating for a day or two, the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females lay 1 to 5 eggs before returning to plants to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. Most of the eggs are laid by mid-August though adults may be found until the first frost. The eggs hatch in 8 to 14 days and the first instar larvae dig to the soil surface to feed on roots and organic material. The first instars shed their skin (molt) in 17 to 25 days. The second instars take 18 to 45 days to mature and molt again. Most of the grubs are in the third instar by late September and by October they dig deeper into the soil to overwinter. The grubs return to thesurface in the spring as the soil temperature warms, usually in mid-April. The grubs continue their development and form a pupa in an earthen cell 1 to 3 inches in the soil. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPtORnD2CAJGXm_lwE0Ff9X_i2hIAu7L3pFUeyBUBv0W1uL_JpyVt2m-3XIexfLo2wuraqUXY4DgtbrPHY5bnttn6zQezuL5zP1x38YpEfr0sUnPqFuX4jmSIRkrPeoqZjjfy_bDzb6C4/s1600/japanese_beetle_damage.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="684" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPtORnD2CAJGXm_lwE0Ff9X_i2hIAu7L3pFUeyBUBv0W1uL_JpyVt2m-3XIexfLo2wuraqUXY4DgtbrPHY5bnttn6zQezuL5zP1x38YpEfr0sUnPqFuX4jmSIRkrPeoqZjjfy_bDzb6C4/s320/japanese_beetle_damage.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">Figure 2.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">When you see those first few beetles, that is the time to begin you plan of attack. Those first few beetles are the food source scouts that will emit the aggregation pheromone letting other beetles know that a feast is on! The Japanese beetle adults feed through the upper leaf surface (epidermis) and leaf center (mesophyll), leaving the lower epidermis intact. Adults usually avoid feeding on tissue between leaf veins, resulting in leaves appearing lace-like or skeletonized (Figure 2). Controlling those first few beetles can give you a head start on stopping the feeding/mating cycle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> <u>Control for Japanese Beetle</u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">There are some control options for the adult life stage One is physical removal and/or trapping of adults: Removing beetles by hand, or trapping, may provide adequate protection for small plantings when beetle numbers are low. However, Japanese beetle adults are capable of migrating from other areas, and the presence of beetles on or near a plant will attract more beetles. Consequently, use of Japanese beetle traps often attracts more beetles, and results in subsequent damage to plants. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">The other alternative is chemical control of adults: Several insecticides are labeled for use against adult Japanese beetles. Always follow label directions. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> Typically, this may entail 2 treatments during the peak beetle flight. Homeowners should make their first application before damage becomes intolerable and beetles are still abundant. The need for repeated applications can be curtailed by inspecting plants for additional beetle damage prior to applying a second treatment. Neem products containing Azadirachtin can be effective repellents that can reduce defoliation when applied regularly (but no more than weekly) during beetle flight. Apply before defoliation becomes intolerable. In years when beetle populations are very high, noticeable defoliation may occur because adults will consume a small amount of insecticide tainted leaves before they are killed. Treat foliage and flowers thoroughly. For optimal control, apply in the late afternoon when beetles are most active. Several other insecticides can be used for Japanese beetle control including those used for codling moth and apple maggot control like acetamaprid. There are others like Sevin, but I do not recommend the use of Sevin since it is toxic to bees and to beneficial insects. Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Figure 3). This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">If you do choose to use chemical controls make sure that the plant you are applying to is listed on the label as well as Japanese Beetles. If controlling Japanese Beetles on food crops such brambles or apples – make sure to follow the harvest-restriction date on the label. Always READ and FOLLOW the label and do not apply at rates higher than listed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia", "times new roman", serif;">This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-32079930028120370182020-06-08T19:40:00.000-05:002020-06-08T19:45:52.953-05:00Protecting Your Apple Fruit From Secondary Apple Scab<br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">This 2020 growing season thus far is proving to be nearly as bad for apple scab as the 2019 season was. We have received only 7.92" of rain since April 1, which is half the amount we received in 2019 for the same time period. And, as of today, June 8, we have had have had 8 apple scab infection periods as compared to 9 in 2019. But, with several of those infection periods lasting for more than 20 hours and one of them lasting more than 62 hours, which kept us from being able to get a cover spray on, resulting in over 3" of rain that washed off the previous spray, it has been pretty much impossible to control primary scab outbreaks. With that being the case, we are at a point of now having to protect fruit from secondary scab.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 1</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Season-long control is very difficult if primary infections develop, like those in Fig. 1, which produce secondary inoculum placing fruit at risk for secondary, conidial infections. With primary ascospores possibly depleted, we will have to continue to monitor scab infection events and maintain spray coverage accordingly for at least two more weeks, if not longer, since we have found primary lesions, like those in Fig. 2 on McIntosh and McIntosh hybrids like Cortland and Empire. If you have seen lesions like those in Fig. 2, on your trees, then you will now need to protect your fruit from secondary lesions. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 2</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The best product for protecting your fruit is Captan, a contact protectant. And that means that your trees will need to be sprayed with Captan at the full labelled rate prior to any rain event to protect your fruit. If there are no rain events between sprays, a single contact protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's labeled information. You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event when using only a protectant. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to reapply as soon as you can before the next rain event. <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">If no protection is available during the wetting event, then the liklihood of your fruit getting infected dramatically increases.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">As always, be sure to follow the label directions on any spray product you may use. For further information on control of apple scab, refer to:</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.blogspot.com/2018/04/apple-scab-season-approaches.html" target="_blank">http://royaloakfarmorchard.blogspot.com/2018/04/apple-scab-season-approaches.html</a></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use</i></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span>of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not</i></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i> constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm. </i></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>People using spray products assume responsibility for their use</i></span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i> in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer for that product. </i></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-38472796030873251632020-05-31T19:33:00.002-05:002020-05-31T19:48:52.746-05:00Codling Moth Arrival and Biofx Setting<br />
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">To determine when flight begins for codling moth, commercial growers make use of pheromone traps. Once moths have been trapped for two consecutive days in a row, a <b>biofix</b> is set that initiates the beginning of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Growing_degree_day">growing-degree-day</a> calculations. We know that at approximately 100 degree days after the biofix date codling moths begin to lay eggs and those eggs begin to hatch at approximately 250 degree days after biofix. It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for codling moth so they do not damage fruit. Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch (larval stage) should make an application of an insecticide at 250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps. Here is a </span></span></span><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/CM_GDD_Model.pdf" target="_blank">Detailed Growing Degree <span style="color: #274e13;">D</span>ay Model for Codling Moth</a>.</span></span></span> </span></span></span><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">We have now established a <b>biofix</b> for CM for this spring and it was May 26. You may a</span></span></span>pply insecticides that need to be present before egg laying at about 50-75 DD or you may apply insecticides that target early egg laying period at 100-200 DD. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Since the biofix date, we have accumulated approximately 9 DD, but with the projected hot temperatures for the comming week, we will have to keep a close eye on the degree days for the first application of an ovicide. It will soon be time time for the home grower to apply a spray to target early egg laying.</span> </span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">For the home orchardist who does not have the benefit of a weather station or other means to calculate degree days, a simple tree growth stage time table can be followed. Codling moths usually start flying at bloom time or just after bloom time at petal fall and approximately at the same time as plum curculio. Eggs laid by these moths begin to hatch about two weeks after petal fall, depending on the weather. You can apply the first codling moth spray at this time, about two weeks after petal fall, to prevent larvae from entering the fruit. Because most insecticide residues last 7 to 10 days and moths are continuously present throughout the summer, apply a spray every 7 to 10 days to prevent later broods of codling moth larvae from entering apple and pear fruits. If using a natural product like Spinosad, then spray after every rain due to washoff. Always follow the label directions of any spray you may use.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Several insecticides can be used for codling moth control including <i><b>acetmaprid</b></i> and/or <b>s<i>pinosad</i></b>.<b> </b> Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Insect Killer. This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, and is also available in a concentrate containing .5% acetamiprid. Acetamiprid is a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact. They are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the entire plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects once it is dry. Be sure to follow all label directions on the bottle for proper application.</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWwH_ogMwl7VMaImCcUNoeoPUhk9z6KAZGTQyTqVdQkJ7_xeVsHwy-PglmaPMplP5MtnycGJqvMC6w5s4ertCWKlb7k6f1zCAV4s-O-sK5AOPkEj8nRs6Q7Nr060s54nvmQ_T1wMB4ltU/s1600/dead_bug_brew.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWwH_ogMwl7VMaImCcUNoeoPUhk9z6KAZGTQyTqVdQkJ7_xeVsHwy-PglmaPMplP5MtnycGJqvMC6w5s4ertCWKlb7k6f1zCAV4s-O-sK5AOPkEj8nRs6Q7Nr060s54nvmQ_T1wMB4ltU/s200/dead_bug_brew.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">An all natural approach is also available in the form of Bonide’s Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew. Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew® contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a product first isolated from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an abandoned rum distillery. Deadbug Brew® kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth, gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars, thrips and more! Use on fruits, vegetables, berries, citrus, grapes, nuts and ornamentals and approved for organic gardening. </span></span></span><br />
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</span></span></span> <span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Both of the above products will kill Codling Moth larvae and need to be sprayed just prior to the emergence of the larvae, which is between 100 to 250 DD after biofix. Since we are not yet at or near 100 DD after biofix, your trees can be sprayed in about 7 to 10 days, depending on the amount of rain that may fall at night between now and then. Typically after 1" of rain, these sprays will have been washed off and will need to be sprayed again to be effective.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y" target="_blank" title="http://nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets/treefruit/pests/cm/cm.asp">https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf</a></span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth" target="_blank" title="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth">http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 195.315px; text-align: left; top: 1148.17px; transform: scaleX(1.00104);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 196.539px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px; transform: scaleX(1.00159);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.</i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 824.455px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><br />
</i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 306.287px; top: 1197.5px; transform: scaleX(0.992161);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>People using spray products assume responsibility for their use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 702.862px; top: 1219.17px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</i></span></div>
</div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
</div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-55281943884390442422020-05-18T15:58:00.000-05:002020-05-18T16:03:49.932-05:00Plum Curculio Season is On the Horizon<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5tuWsM10AIANp-X-AJT-O7t2u7y4yKD7NlCgQUvxvXQWRY8ZwHNTv1RghyhOJ_23-f6u2NyTXwnRQs_85fTruVLqsMEciYc4OJOghVZvaR5dP8w7ORVYCaLdN61LLRtEaGqiUICURihud/s1600/plum_cur_egg.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="plum curculio ovipositing egg" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5tuWsM10AIANp-X-AJT-O7t2u7y4yKD7NlCgQUvxvXQWRY8ZwHNTv1RghyhOJ_23-f6u2NyTXwnRQs_85fTruVLqsMEciYc4OJOghVZvaR5dP8w7ORVYCaLdN61LLRtEaGqiUICURihud/s1600/plum_cur_egg.jpg" title="plum curculio ovipositing egg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plum Curculio Ovipositing Egg</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">With apple scab season in our midst, and petal fall coming to an end, it is time to turn our attention to several insect pests. Plum curculio (PC) is one of the most difficult insect pests to contain. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">They enter the orchard from the perimeter after t</span>he adults pass the winter hidden under leaves, along fence rows, in brush piles, rock walls and in other protected places. In spring when the weather warms up (mean temperature 60°F. or maximum temperature above 75°F.), about the same time apples are blooming, the adults become active. The adult plum curculio beetles, pictured to the left, emerge right around or just after petal fall, to feed on apple buds, flowers, leaves and young fruit. The duration of full bloom to petal fall is usually about 5 to 10 days. From petal fall to fruit set is generally another 5 to 10 days, depending on temperatures. Once the fruit sets, female beetles cut holes in the young fruit and deposit one egg in each cavity. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTC_3fNiRwSw-SelEfjGqZlcPwDRUR0XWpzyyUeVZaqWalvFsA9gmtJM5uHHkvUcons3M3JsPoAloKiXM8f-SBBPP-iJbaCNQ_TYaX6eojDPWokdUCY-F6OpffOfNgwcdhTLpRjpDc-1z-/s1600/plum_curculio_adult.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTC_3fNiRwSw-SelEfjGqZlcPwDRUR0XWpzyyUeVZaqWalvFsA9gmtJM5uHHkvUcons3M3JsPoAloKiXM8f-SBBPP-iJbaCNQ_TYaX6eojDPWokdUCY-F6OpffOfNgwcdhTLpRjpDc-1z-/s400/plum_curculio_adult.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">These sites, called oviposition stings, are easily identified by their crescent shaped cuts. Unlike codling moth, the larvae of plum curculio rarely cause damage to the fruit. The fruit is primarily damaged superficially by the egg-laying and feeding by the adults. These "stings" will cork over and cause an indentation in the fruit as it matures making it look deformed and unsightly.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fY6kQ8od4g0gLNClnoCO25NKy0yhfjONjQYcCl77PDoZJ2hG50vfqpq7tkkhapVxTUZul9oyttsnpM7IdxT3NgY43_N6Md11fOYOpFvaejvXt9n23pTs2vFMU-ZmQ17qpJqKqqw6lmC1/s1600/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="105" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fY6kQ8od4g0gLNClnoCO25NKy0yhfjONjQYcCl77PDoZJ2hG50vfqpq7tkkhapVxTUZul9oyttsnpM7IdxT3NgY43_N6Md11fOYOpFvaejvXt9n23pTs2vFMU-ZmQ17qpJqKqqw6lmC1/s200/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" width="90" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">The question then becomes, how do we control them?? Pesticide application at this time is very important for plum curculio control. To prevent fruit drop, and due to toxicity to bees if there are still blooms on the trees, do not use carbaryl (Sevin®) or any <span class="st"><i>pyrethrin</i></span> based spray as these are highly toxic to honey bees and other pollinators as well as any beneficial insects. Any other pesticides should be applied int he evening when the honey bees have returned tot heor hives. For home growers, an acetamiprid spray such as Ortho® Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer Ready-Spray is a deterrent. If no blooms are present on any trees, a pyrethrin based spray can be used as a deterrent, even though there may be no fruit. Picking up and disposing of any fallen fruit will reduce problems with plum curculio, other insects, and many plant diseases. For conventional growers, Avaunt or Assail are two choices you might use, based on your codling moth protocol and your apple maggot protocol.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">For a pure organic spray, the two most frequently used insecticides are Surround® and Pyganic®, both certified organic. The organic products may need to be sprayed multiple times for complete control at 7 to 10 day intervals or after any rain. And, as always, follow all label directions on any spray product. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">For a complete Fact Sheet on Plum Curculio, consult the <a href="http://hdl.handle.net/1813/43118" target="_blank">Cornell University Plum Curculio Fact Sheet </a>and for an in depth look at this pest.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">__________________________________________</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-71892775978503723282020-05-14T15:26:00.000-05:002020-06-21T19:03:22.423-05:00Tree Growth Stages, Main Pests, and Spray Guide<div align="justify">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If you have a Home Orchard or just a few apple trees in your back yard, and if you have not thought about how to handle those pest problems you had last season yet, now is the time to actively examine a spray protocol for your fruit trees! And start right away, before it is too late and the pests have a chance to establish themselves in your trees! The question everyone needs to ask before spraying is “Do I want to spray or not?” Well, unfortunately, in northern Illinois we have four main pests that we will almost always have to spray for. This is pretty much true for any area east of the Rocky Mountains.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The decision to spray or not depends on how much fruit loss you are willing to take. That is your threshold. If you can accept some fruit loss, then the need to spray diminishes greatly. But if you only have a few trees and some fruit damage may mean losing half your fruit, then spraying becomes more important. Let’s meet our top four pests in northern Illinois, southern Wisconsin, and in most of the states east of the Rocky Mountains.</span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Four Main Pests</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b> </b></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipMEy796FVq7c9fxbfVKVN_n4DcmONwVQw6YRtDBgqQc-HCuWdvcc0AuhEMGx7Rpu1-KXzJmRQ-aL96nEWjqX2viU3qaohC_bzVjt1Rg5OCJij7X9RTwTiS1yqw4btJPdwbFjqsqTkwGCs/s1600-h/Meet_Enemy%25255B1%25255D.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Meet_Enemy" border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn_41SCtyHiManDfEFAZunUPKLXPbh59pvGXTNSFbp5g-pJ4Q2e33fp0kzcKOSzbYqk4sFRaCwtu93lobv6vj_MrL0C4X2BxtTFyTlnesbgA2cE4ran70rn__IpnK7RczAA1gASR0ErAUI/?imgmax=800" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin: 5px auto;" title="Meet_Enemy" width="392" /></a> </h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The four main pests that we face in apple orchards here in our climate zone of 5/5A are <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/apple_scab_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Apple Scab Fact Sheet">apple scab</a>, <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/plum_curculio_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Plum Curculio Fact Sheet">plum curculio</a>, <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/codling_moth_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Codling Moth Fact Sheet">codling moth</a> and <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/apple_maggot_fact_sheet.pdf" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Apple Maggot Fact Sheet">apple maggot</a>, in that order. For more information on these and other potential apple tree pests, visit our web site <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" target="_blank">Growing Guide </a>page. But how do we know when to spray for them if it is a last resort to protecting our fruit? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">All tree fruit have several distinct growth stages as the fruit matures. Knowing and identifying those growth stages is very important for the home grower because recommendations and spray timing for spray applications are linked to these specific growth stages. The chart below shows the common growth stages for apple trees. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Tree Growth Stages (Phenology)</b></span></h3>
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages.pdf" target="_blank"><img alt="apple_growth_stages" border="0" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2FoQIobYk14R4KTLLwxN5jdsESWuGx0w6mp7aTasibKyHJSVpuszmt-y_79VsNJmOWA1b7Lu-LL8DLtMpDTgM4k_A16AX72epclYAG_a5lJ40W05vxGqTJXOnidrbNYoPupXzWTZfxcMK/?imgmax=800" style="border-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin: 5px auto 0px;" title="apple_growth_stages" width="403" /></a> </h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Since the average home grower does not have access to their own weather stations or degree day calculators, the fruit tree development stages play an ever greater role in pest management for the average grower. Most spray schedules (protocol) follow the tree development stages to aid in the timing of sprays so they are most effective. It is important to note that many diseases and some insects can only be controlled by spraying before they can be seen like apple scab. Spraying less frequently or at the wrong time will typically result in poor results. And, spraying more frequently will not necessarily give greater control.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The tree developmental stages or tree phenology gives us a guide as to when to spray, but what do we spray if we have to spray? If we consult some of the various spray guides available to the home grower, we will find that most of the spray guides provide us with the tree’s development stages (phenology) and the insects or diseases that frequently occur during each of theses stages. So the tree phenology serves as timing guide when the application of a particular spray is recommended in order to control specific insects or diseases at the right time. The following spray guide for apple trees will give us the time to spray based on tree phenology, the pest to spray for and the product recommendation for that pest(s).</span></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Apple Spray Guide</b></span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VwXHxZuwTj4mqRDtLqgTKBuwIaqV6VoIfaECPoxtGFqs0g9HYpkLXG9QwO0U9F1RZQnGuBIo1wiLDmjArBVbX4bazhnF-fE9XDggy8DRxQQHPvfjGqi2eB-ELr_NroX6LcMPOFxVssBJ/s1600/Apple_Spray_Guide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1320" data-original-width="1020" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VwXHxZuwTj4mqRDtLqgTKBuwIaqV6VoIfaECPoxtGFqs0g9HYpkLXG9QwO0U9F1RZQnGuBIo1wiLDmjArBVbX4bazhnF-fE9XDggy8DRxQQHPvfjGqi2eB-ELr_NroX6LcMPOFxVssBJ/s640/Apple_Spray_Guide.jpg" width="492" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This particular spray guide is included in “<a href="https://mdc.itap.purdue.edu/item.asp?item_number=ID-146-W#.U20p_HbaEsA" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings">Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings</a>” from the Purdue University Extensions Publication web site or our <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Contact Me">web site</a> as a free download. It goes into detail as to the various products available for spraying that include both conventional and organic alternatives. The publication includes apples, pears, peach, cherry, grape, strawberry and raspberry guides as well as the phenology charts for each fruit type. For recommendations on spray products for the Home Orchard visit <a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/spray_product_descriptions.pdf" target="_blank">our spray product recommendations.</a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />
</span> <br />
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 197.165px; text-align: left; top: 1126.5px; transform: scaleX(0.989583);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Reference in this publication to any specific commercial product, process, or service, or the use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 195.315px; text-align: left; top: 1148.17px; transform: scaleX(1.00104);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>of any trade, firm, or corporation name is for general informational purposes only and does not </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 196.539px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px; transform: scaleX(1.00159);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>constitute an endorsement or certification of any kind by Royal Oak Farm.</i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 824.455px; text-align: left; top: 1169.83px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><br />
</i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 306.287px; top: 1197.5px; transform: scaleX(0.992161);">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>People using spray products assume responsibility for their use </i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: serif; left: 702.862px; top: 1219.17px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>in accordance with current label directions of the manufacturer.</i></span></div>
</div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-73592174340320875832020-05-07T09:52:00.000-05:002020-05-07T09:52:12.224-05:00Revisiting Critical Temperatures for Fruit Trees<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">With the predicted colder night temperatures we are about to see, it's always a good idea to revisit the critical temperatures that can cause frost or freeze damage to fruit trees, specifically apple trees. We are currently at tight cluster to pink to bloom here in northern Illinois with a forecast of night temperatures in the high 20's this weekend. Fortunately, our trees haven't progressed to far this spring, but we could see some bloom this weekend. This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and early April and is dropping our temperatures going into mid-May to way below normal. The early warm temperatures accelerated bud swell, and the lower temperatures that are anticipated present the threat of frost or freeze damage to new leaf and bloom tissue. It seems that each spring since about 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost or freeze damage with our fruit trees. </span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKj-HmivEAN1W7FJg5ZUQf7qSUejhCbcBGzxBtoA6BLQ-swYkbrs1Mw3xDhd6d27VRFpT051YSKe4SES02ARz4_UJI7TO4SiF-EH1FHsSLjfhpY3cnqmU1wa6BquAZfvHm07eUsTChdtny/s1600/apple_bloom_frost_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKj-HmivEAN1W7FJg5ZUQf7qSUejhCbcBGzxBtoA6BLQ-swYkbrs1Mw3xDhd6d27VRFpT051YSKe4SES02ARz4_UJI7TO4SiF-EH1FHsSLjfhpY3cnqmU1wa6BquAZfvHm07eUsTChdtny/s320/apple_bloom_frost_damage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="justify"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Dark brown centers and signed appearance of the petals </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">indicate that both king and side blooms were killed in a</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">freeze the morning this picture was taken. (<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Photo credit:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Mark Longstroth, <abbr title="Michigan State University">MSU</abbr> Extension)</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged. As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. Freezing temperatures of 28 degrees F. will result in about a 10 percent loss and 24 F will result in a 90 percent loss, as indicated by the charts down below.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0YQy270PAVIyYd45Png7FUufjSNzgwarme3PAZL7sEi3G521T-CrXg3UkZNDIjlZrv6UDyvALqos53TaP8i-aEhiUtwCCj7mxFkzScYRlo8TahaJv6uhkhea9WDqf-FXTcjNyRFMts5A/s1600/apple_flower_freeze_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0YQy270PAVIyYd45Png7FUufjSNzgwarme3PAZL7sEi3G521T-CrXg3UkZNDIjlZrv6UDyvALqos53TaP8i-aEhiUtwCCj7mxFkzScYRlo8TahaJv6uhkhea9WDqf-FXTcjNyRFMts5A/s1600/apple_flower_freeze_damage.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The dark brown center of this apple flower indicates it was</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">killed by a freeze.<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> (Photo credit: Mark Longstroth, <abbr title="Michigan State University">MSU</abbr> Extension)</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In a radiation freeze with clear, calm conditions, fruit at higher elevations or in the tops of trees will be less damaged than those at lower elevations, since colder air is more dense than warmer air and sinks to ground level, pushing the warmer air up. The percent of flowers killed in a frost may or may not relate directly to lost yield later in the season. With large-fruited fruits such as apples, peaches, plums and pears, the loss of 50 percent of the flower may not be devastating since we may only want a small percentage of the flowers to become fruit, meaning that fruit thinning may be totally unnecessary. So the stage of bud and bloom development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur. For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the <b><i><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage</a></i></b> on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below.</span><br />
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img alt="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" border="0" height="315" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/-9hNOYss_yFQ/T3uERuVikRI/AAAAAAAAAJk/Cubof4CQLxA/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="border-color: -moz-use-text-color; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" border="0" height="315" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/-YE4u9miqKuI/T3uESDikjiI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/db941-SZrlg/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="border-color: -moz-use-text-color; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline;" title="Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">(Click on the photos to download the chart in PDF format.)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring a spring frost could still be possible. Once the fruit has set, then the critical temperatures that can damage the fruit become lower. We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at over the next weeks and their susceptibility to possible freeze injury.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If we continue in this spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster, pink and bloom, the <b><i>critical temperature</i></b> rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time, which is the most critical time to get frost damage. </span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-76595958990204103082020-04-27T14:04:00.000-05:002020-04-28T13:58:49.880-05:00Apple Scab Has Arrived to Northern Illinois<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Based on our NEWA (</span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Network for Environment and Weather Applications) Apple Scab Model, we have had multiple scab infection events beginning March 9 with spore maturity being very low (see chart below). But, the scab season has officially begun! With no leaf tissue showing prior to green tip, any previous infection period would have no immediate effect on the leaf tissue, but we now know that there are spores out there. Since we had our copper spray put on right at green tip the evening of April 10, we were protected from the infection once the spores began to mature. With spore maturity and discharge being very low, the risk is also very low, but we still need to be protected because any high temperature day can cause the spores to mature very quickly. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Ascospores mature as spring progresses with a few ascospores usually
maturing by bud break (green tip). The proportion of ascospores maturing
progresses slowly until about the tight cluster stage of blossom
development. From tight cluster through bloom the percentage of mature
ascospores rapidly increases with most ascospores matured by the end of
bloom. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />Unusual weather conditions may contribute to significant ascospore discharges earlier than or later than the model predicts. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br />Mature
ascospores begin to discharge into the air within 30 minutes during
periods of rain. When rainfall begins at night, discharge may be delayed
until daybreak. Ascospore discharge usually peaks from pink through
bloom, and nearly all ascospores have been discharged within 1 or 2
weeks after petal fall. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Copper has been shown to be a protectant against scab on the tissue that has been covered, but not on any new tissue that would have grown since that copper spray was put on. If no copper spray has been put on your trees as of today, and you have not put any other protectant on like Captan or Mancozeb, you still have time to get an </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="st"><i>eradicant fungicide</i></span> put on your trees in the form of Immunox, which has a 72 to 96 hour reach back ability. That means that you have up to 72 to 96 hours to get a spray on which will still be effective against any scab infection event 72 to 96 hours previous. Immunox is a xylum mobile fungicide which means </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">when applied to leaves it will move throughout the leaves it was deposited on but will not move out of that leaf. </span> </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages.pdf" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Tree Phenology" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiXXaWC_27LIbEVoqiIG1OjaHymYyXJLAMRP5BCqvGsTRVCbwg7OzKm-eCgsZjErwwjTC1Vy49PBcU8uJ6N4SEZseyhEY90TOUEeTNGFth_A6zng5bGI-ZM02P6xxIMG8FaWx0akrsrkoH/s200/apple_growth_stages_01.jpg" title="Tree Phenology" width="152" /></a><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Spray_Guide.pdf" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Spray Guide" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nclwUTB7oTaKFt4J4zMoFbheZ60XcEC-82ZVI7o0xEiY0-uVxGlTw8pp-0omG-7Url774y-dPktXpb_TMIa6YvzCDv534D_RBWBs1SDmGzip5WuNxvq3s1tOxQQLHRAHcMzOq4_siciF/s200/apple_spray_guide.jpg" title="Spray Guide" width="154" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">For the home grower who may not have a weather station or scab model to help predict the apple scab infection periods, monitoring for apple scab can be quite complicated. But there is an alternative. Unless wetness periods are being monitored as outlined in the section above, you can simply apply protective or eradicant fungicides at regular intervals beginning with green tip. Spraying should be done every 7 to 10 days, depending on the number of rain events between sprays. If there are no rain events between sprays, a single protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's label directions. You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event if you are going to use only a protectant. A good protectant is Captan or Mancozeb. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to keep an eradicant on hand like a myclobutanil, which is available as Spectracide Immunox, which I mention above. A protectant like Captan has to be applied prior to a rain event. If no protection is available during the wetting event, then only an eradicant like Immunox can be applied that has a reach back of 72 to 96 hours as I have stated above. That means that it can still have an effect on the scab pathogen for up to 96 hours after a wetting event, although it is a good practice to use the shorter 72 hours.. A good option is to actually use both a protectant and an erdicant at the same time, like Captan mixed with Immunox, which will give you both protection and eradicant action after a wetting event. Be sure to monitor wetness periods throughout the spring to insure that trees are always adequately protected. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-size: normal;">But, regardless of
the type of mobility that a fungicide possesses, no fungicide is
effective after the development of visible disease symptoms. For that
reason, timely fungicide application before establishment of the disease
is important for optimal disease management.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: normal;">_____________________________________________________________</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: normal;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<br />Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-71855631074011232942020-04-22T14:16:00.001-05:002021-06-17T18:18:19.112-05:00Apple Scab Season is Upon Us<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">We are now officially emerging into the apple scab season as green tip and 1/4" green leaf tissue is seen on the apple trees. In some cases, due to our uncertain weather pattern, some trees are still at silver tip and others are near 1/2" green, but as long as any leaf tissue is exposed, there is a chance for primary scab to set in. </span>Apple scab is the most prevalent and most damaging disease to apples we have in the Midwest and pretty much all apple growing locations east of the Rocky Mountains. At this point, scab sprays should be applied according to the <a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Spray_Guide.pdf" target="_blank">Apple Spray Guide</a> found in <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/managing_pests_home_fruit_plantings.pdf" target="_blank">"Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings"</a>. In the spring, once temperatures rise above the 42 degree or so mark, apple scab fungal spores can germinate in water on the surface of apple tree leaves and eventually, on the fruit itself. The water or moisture that is on the leaves is termed "leaf wetness". The spores will germinate once the leaves are wet for a certain period of time at temperatures above 42 degrees. On the leaves, olive green to brown spots appear on the site of the infection. If the leaves have not been protected from this "primary" scab infection, the spores will mature and produce more spores during "leaf wetness" periods and move onto the apples where they form a "scab" like lesion, if the fruit is not protected. We call the lesions on the apples "secondary" scab. With enough moisture (leaf wetness), the cycle continues throughout the growing season and destroys the crop. Each leaf wetness event at the proper temperature that occurs during the early growing season is called and infection period.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Managing Apple Scab</span></h3><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The apple scab fungus survives in dead leaves on the ground and over winters there on the leaves. A lack of spring rains can reduce its importance, but as a rule, apple scab requires yearly spray treatments. And, ornamental crab apple trees are also hosts. As plant parts mature and the weather gets warmer, susceptibility to this disease decreases, usually in late June, but pinpoint scab can occur during extended periods of moisture during summer. The main objective in scab management is the reduction or prevention of primary infections in spring. Extensive primary infections result in poor fruit set and make scab control during the season more difficult. If primary infections are successfully controlled, secondary infections will not be serious. The key to success in scab control is exact timing and full spray coverage. Wet periods, temperature, and relative humidity are important factors. Because scab control often is part of a combination treatment aimed at other diseases and insect control, choice of materials and timing are also extremely important.</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">How Can an Infection Period be Determined?</span></h3><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Apple scab infection periods can be predicted based on temperature and moisture (leaf wetness) conditions. The Mills Table below, derived from research by Mills and La Plante, gives hours needed at various temperatures under constantly wet conditions for primary spores (ascospores) to cause infection in spring. This system for forecasting scab and timing sprays has been validated for apple-growing regions in the Midwest.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYRQfdpXgk0HhHsslu9nTGzbAjovjQY9mLnUkzuqdcWMbmgB5s3c6x8kNR5OpErTv8OpKu1jPPoxAPRHriKTO31wWv5etCqVHc4Z-8MaV3jR5VOfaCV33y97JWHkVopp3CmvOJJSrzttU/s1600/mills_table.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mills Table" border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYRQfdpXgk0HhHsslu9nTGzbAjovjQY9mLnUkzuqdcWMbmgB5s3c6x8kNR5OpErTv8OpKu1jPPoxAPRHriKTO31wWv5etCqVHc4Z-8MaV3jR5VOfaCV33y97JWHkVopp3CmvOJJSrzttU/s400/mills_table.jpg" title="Mills Table" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>How to use the table</b>: Figure the average temperature for the rain period by adding the maximum and the minimum temperatures and dividing by 2. If wet periods are intermittent, total their duration until there is a period of at least 6 hours of continuous dryness. You will need a wetness recorder to do this efficiently. If the dry period is sunny, and drying is quick and thorough, it is assumed that 6 hours after the trees have dried, the danger is passed. If drying is slow, and humidity remains high, then the 6-hour dry period is extended by a safety margin of 3 to 4 hours. </span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">To Spray or Not To Spray</span></h3><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Growth_Stages.pdf" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Tree Phenology" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiXXaWC_27LIbEVoqiIG1OjaHymYyXJLAMRP5BCqvGsTRVCbwg7OzKm-eCgsZjErwwjTC1Vy49PBcU8uJ6N4SEZseyhEY90TOUEeTNGFth_A6zng5bGI-ZM02P6xxIMG8FaWx0akrsrkoH/s200/apple_growth_stages_01.jpg" title="Tree Phenology" width="152" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Apple_Spray_Guide.pdf" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Spray Guide" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nclwUTB7oTaKFt4J4zMoFbheZ60XcEC-82ZVI7o0xEiY0-uVxGlTw8pp-0omG-7Url774y-dPktXpb_TMIa6YvzCDv534D_RBWBs1SDmGzip5WuNxvq3s1tOxQQLHRAHcMzOq4_siciF/s200/apple_spray_guide.jpg" title="Spray Guide" width="154" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Monitoring for apple scab can be quite complicated for the home grower. But there is an alternative. Unless wetness periods are being monitored as outlined in the section above, you can simply apply protective or eradicant fungicides at regular intervals beginning with green tip. Spraying should be done every 7 to 10 days, depending on the number of rain events between sprays. If there are no rain events between sprays, a single protectant spray will last at least 10 days but not more than 14 days, based on the product's label directions. You will need to make sure that your trees and fruit are protected prior to any rain event if you are going to use only a protectant. A good protectant is Captan or Mancozeb. But, a protectant can lose its effectivness after 2" of rain, so you also want to keep an eradicant on hand like a myclobutanil, which is available as Spectracide Immunox. <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A protectant like Captan has to be applied prior to a rain event.<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> If no protection is available during the wetting event, then only an eradicant like <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Immunox</span> can be applied that has a reach back of at least 48 hours. That means that it can still have an effect on the scab pathogen for up to 48 hours after a wetting event. A good option is to actually use both a protectant and an erdicant at the same time, like Captan mixed with Immunox, which will give you both protection and eradicant action after a wetting event. </span></span>Be sure to monitor wetness periods throughout the spring to insure that trees are always adequately protected. </span> </span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">More About Fungicides</span></h3><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fungicides can be contact fungicides or penetrant fungicides and non-systemic, locally systemic or systemic. Mobility describes fungicide movement after it is applied to a plant. To understand differences in mobility, it’s important to know the difference between absorption and adsorption.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fungicides that can be taken up by the plant are absorbed. Fungicides that adhere in an extremely thin layer to plant surfaces are adsorbed. Because fungicides are either adsorbed or absorbed, they have two basic forms of mobility: <b>contact </b>and <b>penetrant</b>. Regardless of the type of mobility that a fungicide possesses, no fungicide is effective after the development of visible disease symptoms. For that reason, timely fungicide application before establishment of the disease is important for optimal disease management.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>Contact</b> fungicides are adsorbed and considered non-systemic. They are susceptible to being washed away by rain or irrigation, and most (but not all) do not protect parts that grow and develop after the product is applied. Captan is one such contact fungicide.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>Penetrant</b> fungicides are absorbed, so they move into plant tissues, and penetrate beyond the cuticle and into the treated leaf tissue itself. There are various kinds of penetrants, characterized by their ability to spread when absorbed by the plant. They can be locally systemic, penetrating leaf tissue only or systemic, moving beyond the leaf tissue. Systemic fungicides can be further subdivided based on the direction and degree of movement once they have been absorbed and translocated inside the plant. Immunox is a penetrant that is xylem mobile, therefor, not totally systemic or amphimobile.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">©Janna Beckerman, Department of Botany and Plant Pathology, Purdue University</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>Xylem-mobile</b> fungicides (also called acropetal penetrants ) move upward from the point of entry through the plant’s xylem.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>Amphimobile</b> fungicides (also called true systemic penetrants) move throughout the plant through its xylemand phloem.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>Locally systemic</b> fungicides have limited translocation from the application site</span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>Translaminar</b> fungicides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact, but are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant. </span></div><span style="font-size: large;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">In summary, systemic fungicides <span class="vm-hook-outer vm-hook-default"><span class="vm-hook" style="border-color: transparent transparent rgb(0, 153, 0); color: #009900;">work</span></span> by becoming absorbed into the plant tissues and protecting the plant from fungal diseases as well as ridding the plant of any existing diseases. Some systemic fungicides are locally systemic, meaning that the chemicals aren't transmitted very far from the application site on the plant. Other systemic fungicides are applied to and absorbed up through the roots, moving throughout the rest of the plant. Eradicant fungicides can have systemic action, depending on which chemistry is chosen. Some are translocated within the host tissue and are able to kill the scab fungus up to a certain length of time after infection occurs. This is called the kickback or reachback period. Because kickback periods may change, always check the label for the most recent information. Kickback is calculated from the <i>beginning</i> of an infection period, as determined by the Mills and La Plante table.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">________________________________________________________________</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"><span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-77515170555073017672020-04-13T15:59:00.002-05:002020-04-13T15:59:23.556-05:00Time to Start Spraying to Control Pests<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">If you have not done so already, it's time to begin thinking about a dormant oil and copper spray for your fruit trees! The apple trees are at silver tip and approaching green tip in the orchard here at Royal Oak Farm Orchard in northern Illinois. We may green tip fully this week with the daytime temperatures, but those night projections below freezing will keep the tree growth to a minimum for the remainder of the week temperatures. It also indicates that just as soon as the nights stay above freezing, the trees will pop and we will be moving into apple scab season. </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">So it is not too late to do a dormant oil and copper spray if you have not already. We completed our spray on April 18. </span></span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">The oil (mineral oil) is sprayed for mites, scale and aphids because spring is the time to cover those eggs at the base of the buds before they begin to hatch. The oil smothers the eggs and they suffocate before hatching. Below you can see aphid eggs that were laid last fall.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXB2ZAkI_V17fHIquQtmUc0eLsQw0zAOOgaktZiUsgpeA5NgrOvGxNQHwk8y7IzKGUNcumn78jJwF-trFqTIWk6nvruipFa4IWlvsmaF0mpA4cv-Tpi4bzj6u96jGHF92r-Peg5KOySV1/s1600/aphid_eggs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Aphid Eggs" border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXB2ZAkI_V17fHIquQtmUc0eLsQw0zAOOgaktZiUsgpeA5NgrOvGxNQHwk8y7IzKGUNcumn78jJwF-trFqTIWk6nvruipFa4IWlvsmaF0mpA4cv-Tpi4bzj6u96jGHF92r-Peg5KOySV1/s320/aphid_eggs.jpg" title="Aphid Eggs" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Copper is also sprayed at this time for control of fire blight and to aid in the suppression of apple scab pathogens, both being severe diseases that can destroy a crop as well as the trees. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: large;">We also have to be aware of the spring critical temperatures as the buds progress in development. Each spring I post the spring critical temperatures chart from Utah State to help you determine at what stage your fruit trees may be at as spring progresses. For those who may have ,missed my last post, here are the charts again.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3KsOW75-Lo3NNeYctoOjE5kk8LnlAKhNxEfv7Gi0PJeRx-IjR_P3koV3TZD2QQxPBGsE8dmIqLDN7xWrNvSFG_XjtB3-fvrhFLtBAXKstFHkxaM-2PqWcXA0vwwukrb8Fuscgjg1jYA_/s1600/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Critical Spring Temperature Apple Pear" border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3KsOW75-Lo3NNeYctoOjE5kk8LnlAKhNxEfv7Gi0PJeRx-IjR_P3koV3TZD2QQxPBGsE8dmIqLDN7xWrNvSFG_XjtB3-fvrhFLtBAXKstFHkxaM-2PqWcXA0vwwukrb8Fuscgjg1jYA_/s400/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1.jpg" title="Critical Spring Temperature Apple Pear" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBz4yDbWdHrDzgV01496Hfw7K087N8yxjcEaQBObbQMJIbeY2Q_HPAl1RGp3qgztrKXm_-poNEu-19IMoDfq2FfRPb7csLmRw7CsiQiI16jK1g0bNTBlmzzswxzp6cha76Fw9OcywPRDJ/s1600/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Critical Spring Temperatures Stone Fruit" border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBz4yDbWdHrDzgV01496Hfw7K087N8yxjcEaQBObbQMJIbeY2Q_HPAl1RGp3qgztrKXm_-poNEu-19IMoDfq2FfRPb7csLmRw7CsiQiI16jK1g0bNTBlmzzswxzp6cha76Fw9OcywPRDJ/s400/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2.jpg" title="Critical Spring Temperatures Stone Fruit" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Ever wonder how the fruit trees know when it's time to come out of dormancy? Well, the trees won't come out of dormancy until they have endured a certain amount of time with temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the number of chill hours they need is achieved and temperatures warm in the spring, the trees come out of dormancy and resume their normal growth. The number of hours required at cooler temperatures is known as the chill requirement or chill hours. Most apple varieties require 400-1000 chill hours, so most of the trees in our area have met their requirement and will come out of dormancy just as soon as temperatures warm. Growth resumption can be predicted by tracking what we call growth units. Growth units are the number of degree hours above 41 F. For example, if the temperature averages 51 F for and hour, then 10 degree units are accumulated. Bud break initiates after approx 3710 F growth units accumulate, and progresses depending on the temperature. We do our dormant oil and copper spray generally around April 10. The best time to spray is at silver tip....when the buds have that silvery/gray tinted fuzz on them. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">You can use the chart below to determine the growth stage your trees.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">As I mentioned earlier, now is the time to do our fire blight/scab copper spray and our horticultural oil spray. We want to get the copper on the trees before they reach full 1/4” green and the horticultural oil can be sprayed at the same time in a tank mix or done as a dormant,silver tip,green tip, or 1/4” green spray. In other words, your oil can be sprayed at any time from silver tip through 1/4” green providing you are using a mineral oil based product such as Superior Oil 70sec or an off the shelf Horticultural Oil such as <a href="http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=210" target="_blank">Bonide’s All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil</a>. Your copper spray should be done before the trees reach 1/4” green to avoid any phytotoxicity issues. For your copper spray you can also use an off the shelf brand such as <a href="http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=775" target="_blank">Bonide Copper Fungicide RTU</a> (Ready to Use). Both of these products should be available at your local hardware store or garden center of from Amazon.com.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><i><b>A dormant oil and copper spray should not be done until we get at least a 24 hour period that is above freezing at night.</b></i> The oil cannot freeze on the trees, but it pretty much dries within about 24 hours. Once dry, there is no chance of it freezing. We usually get at least one 24 hour period above freezing at night before the trees get to 1/4" green. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">This “window of opportunity” for dormant sprays for fruit trees depends on the bud stage of your target fruit tree. You can follow these guidelines:</span></span></div>
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<b><i>Apples: swollen bud to 1/4” green <br />
Pears: swollen bud to cluster bud <br />
Peaches/Nectarines: swollen bud to pre-bloom <br />
Apricot: before bloom</i></b></span><br />
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When applying, spray trees just until they are dripping to get good application on all the stems and crevices at the buds. If you are using horticultural oil alone, use a rate of 2% (mixed in water) for best results or follow your chosen product’s label rate. For situations where aphids have been real problems in the past, consider adding an insecticide (such as acetamiprid, etc.) to 1.5 - 2% oil or use one of the Bonide RTU (ready to use) pre-mixes for insect pests.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;">For get our <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" target="_blank">Growing Guide</a> on maintaining your trees and </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><a href="http://Resources for the Home Orchard Grower" target="_blank">Resources for the Home Orchard Grower</a> of the above charts, visit our <a href="http://Resources for the Home Orchard Grower" target="_blank">Nursery Growing Guide</a> web page!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> __________________________________________</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This
publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to
change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide.
It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read
and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide
being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration,
some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be
legal by the time you read them. If any information in these
recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be
disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is
criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no
liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-59704314350185167902020-04-09T16:37:00.001-05:002020-05-07T09:47:59.052-05:00Critical Temperatures for Freeze or Frost Damage to Apple Trees<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">With the predicted colder night temperatures we are sure to see, it's always a good idea to revisit the critical temperatures that can cause frost or freeze damage to fruit trees, specifically apple trees. We are currently at silver tip to green tip here in northern Illinois with a forecast of night temperatures in the low 20's next week. Fortunately, our trees haven't progressed to far this spring, but we could see green tip before next week. This spring has marked another unprecedented weather pattern that raised our temperatures in late March and early April and is dropping our temperatures going into mid-April to way below normal. The early warm temperatures accelerated bud swell, and the lower temperatures that are anticipated present the threat of frost or freeze damage to new green tip leaf tissue. It seems that each spring since about 2012, we have been on the verge of critical temperatures for frost or freeze damage with our fruit trees. </span> </span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKj-HmivEAN1W7FJg5ZUQf7qSUejhCbcBGzxBtoA6BLQ-swYkbrs1Mw3xDhd6d27VRFpT051YSKe4SES02ARz4_UJI7TO4SiF-EH1FHsSLjfhpY3cnqmU1wa6BquAZfvHm07eUsTChdtny/s1600/apple_bloom_frost_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKj-HmivEAN1W7FJg5ZUQf7qSUejhCbcBGzxBtoA6BLQ-swYkbrs1Mw3xDhd6d27VRFpT051YSKe4SES02ARz4_UJI7TO4SiF-EH1FHsSLjfhpY3cnqmU1wa6BquAZfvHm07eUsTChdtny/s320/apple_bloom_frost_damage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="justify"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Dark brown centers and signed appearance of the petals </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">indicate that both king and side blooms were killed in a</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">freeze the morning this picture was taken. (<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Photo credit:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Mark Longstroth, <abbr title="Michigan State University">MSU</abbr> Extension)</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As the trees develop in the spring and buds start to swell, they lose the ability to withstand the cold winter temperatures that they could withstand in dormancy during the cold winter months. The young, actively growing tissue can then be damaged or even killed. Swollen fruit buds can better withstand temperatures in the teens without any damage. As the buds open, temperatures in the low 20s can cause harm, but sometimes leave other buds undamaged. As growth moves from green tip to 1/4” green to 1/2” green to tight cluster to pink in apple trees, temperatures in the upper 20s can cause considerable harm to an early blooming tree. Near bloom, the range between slight and severe damage can be very small. Freezing temperatures of 28 degrees F. will result in about a 10 percent loss and 24 F will result in a 90 percent loss, as indicated by the charts down below.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0YQy270PAVIyYd45Png7FUufjSNzgwarme3PAZL7sEi3G521T-CrXg3UkZNDIjlZrv6UDyvALqos53TaP8i-aEhiUtwCCj7mxFkzScYRlo8TahaJv6uhkhea9WDqf-FXTcjNyRFMts5A/s1600/apple_flower_freeze_damage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0YQy270PAVIyYd45Png7FUufjSNzgwarme3PAZL7sEi3G521T-CrXg3UkZNDIjlZrv6UDyvALqos53TaP8i-aEhiUtwCCj7mxFkzScYRlo8TahaJv6uhkhea9WDqf-FXTcjNyRFMts5A/s1600/apple_flower_freeze_damage.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The dark brown center of this apple flower indicates it was</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">killed by a freeze.<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> (Photo credit: Mark Longstroth, <abbr title="Michigan State University">MSU</abbr> Extension)</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In a radiation freeze with clear, calm conditions, fruit at higher elevations or in the tops of trees will be less damaged than those at lower elevations, since colder air is more dense than warmer air and sinks to ground level, pushing the warmer air up. The percent of flowers killed in a frost may or may not relate directly to lost yield later in the season. With large-fruited fruits such as apples, peaches, plums and pears, the loss of 50 percent of the flower may not be devastating since we may only want a small percentage of the flowers to become fruit, meaning that fruit thinning may be totally unnecessary. So the stage of bud and bloom development determines how susceptible any given fruit crop is when freezes occur. For more information on what those critical temperatures are that can cause freeze damage to trees during development, I have added two charts on the <b><i><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Critical Temperatures For Frost Damage</a></i></b> on Fruit Trees from Utah State University below that you can download by clicking on either chart below.</span><br />
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<a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img alt="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" border="0" height="315" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/-9hNOYss_yFQ/T3uERuVikRI/AAAAAAAAAJk/Cubof4CQLxA/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="border-color: -moz-use-text-color; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_1" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah.pdf" border="0" height="315" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/-YE4u9miqKuI/T3uESDikjiI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/db941-SZrlg/Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="border-color: -moz-use-text-color; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline;" title="Critical_Temperatures_Frost_Damage_Fruit_Trees_Utah_Page_2" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">(Click on the photos to download the chart in PDF format.)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Given the weather patterns we have experienced so far this spring a spring frost could still be possible. Once the fruit has set, then the critical temperatures that can damage the fruit become lower. We will need to constantly assess the stage of development our trees are at over the next weeks and their susceptibility to possible freeze injury.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If we continue in this spell of colder weather, apple trees will continue to develop more slowly, but once they begin showing tight cluster, pink and bloom, the <b><i>critical temperature</i></b> rises from the low 20’s to the high 20s, to levels just below freezing at bloom time, which is the most critical time to get frost damage. </span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-72527908827878211032020-03-24T17:38:00.001-05:002020-04-09T16:33:28.283-05:00Time to Plan for Pest Management for the 2020 Growing Season<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRbSVlIBbq5Z5F_MEXemGA5xlhFoAMFLNj93R4wCbiz9NTpuE8tY1se9U53Kt72vbDIssDCfYIlTuuEj6nPy8zmy5MFfmIKvrijnSpkxSLlrKZSQPnPFi5iVYQWGYRSOXW0i3uptyVJsQ8/s1600/tall_spindle_apples.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="426" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRbSVlIBbq5Z5F_MEXemGA5xlhFoAMFLNj93R4wCbiz9NTpuE8tY1se9U53Kt72vbDIssDCfYIlTuuEj6nPy8zmy5MFfmIKvrijnSpkxSLlrKZSQPnPFi5iVYQWGYRSOXW0i3uptyVJsQ8/s320/tall_spindle_apples.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">Many homeowners enjoy raising their own fruit, but anyone who has attempted to grow fruit in their backyard knows that fruit crops are attacked by a wide variety of insect and disease pests and prone to environmental damage, especially in the Midwest. For your Home Orchard, we recommend the use of an entirely new approach to managing pests called Biointensive Integrated Pest management (Bio-IPM) to minimize the insect and disease damage to your fruit. Biointensive IPM utilizes a systems approach to pest management based on an understanding of pest ecology and tree physiology. It begins with steps to accurately diagnose the nature and source of pest problems, and then relies on a range of preventive tactics and biological controls to keep pest populations within acceptable limits. The preventative tactics include a combination of ecological, biological, natural, and cultural controls to keep applications of chemical and organic controls to a minimum. The goal is only to spray as a last resort for the control of pest and disease and to only </span><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">use the most environmentally friendly materials.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font: 13px "constantia" , "georgia" , "palatino";"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqam2Got89sFnQ0hgz27OfVAM8iQz2jR4hEhge_1Xgj_XpW7gZwp0lmiT4-jVe_Ll3L_zbVJhiWANNlPxPmH8WFRC4VhR27nQdWm_D05hwIr9FeKDbeUhKdTxlvEiZMpxpmiaxbv5LJlKg/s1600/Meet_the_Enemy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Meet the Enemy" border="0" data-original-height="1191" data-original-width="1600" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqam2Got89sFnQ0hgz27OfVAM8iQz2jR4hEhge_1Xgj_XpW7gZwp0lmiT4-jVe_Ll3L_zbVJhiWANNlPxPmH8WFRC4VhR27nQdWm_D05hwIr9FeKDbeUhKdTxlvEiZMpxpmiaxbv5LJlKg/s320/Meet_the_Enemy.jpg" title="Meet the Enemy" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">In the northern regions of Illinois and in most apple growing regions east of the Mississippi, there are four main pests of apple trees. Those four main pests are plum curculio, codling moth, apple maggot, fire blight and apple scab. To learn more about these pests and how to control them, </span><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">you may want to download the available pest <b>fact sheets</b> and the "<b>Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings"</b> guide from Purdue University available here or on our <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" target="_blank">web site</a>. This publication provides homeowners with the information they need to produce an acceptable amount of quality fruit (apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, grapes, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries).</span></span></div>
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<span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font: 13px "constantia" , "georgia" , "palatino";"> </span><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font: 13px "constantia" , "georgia" , "palatino";"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwv8fTgBhJEEG6O5TECJEEfEGbJZeEMhzvi625r0w6C4j3YhvPuEU9nU1upTV5Fy9m4LsXqz-8h9l29LsI5NmCVq7OwQ84Fcy_AI1LSR6dEnCAUXMgUdC1Xi3ffZjGaYvMghUmg9NN4VQ/s1600/dead_bug_brew.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Spinosad" border="0" data-original-height="649" data-original-width="649" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwv8fTgBhJEEG6O5TECJEEfEGbJZeEMhzvi625r0w6C4j3YhvPuEU9nU1upTV5Fy9m4LsXqz-8h9l29LsI5NmCVq7OwQ84Fcy_AI1LSR6dEnCAUXMgUdC1Xi3ffZjGaYvMghUmg9NN4VQ/s200/dead_bug_brew.jpg" title="Spinosad" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-size: large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">Often there are enough beneficials (insects that prey upon other insects) to control the pest(s) </span><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-size: large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">in your orchard</span><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-size: small; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: large;"> without spraying. On other occasions you might use traps to catch pest species as they enter your orchard, or determine from the traps that there are too few of the pest to cause serious damage to your trees or fruit. But if you do have to control insect pests, there are many new all natural products on the market today that can be a 100% ecological solution. One of those products is spinosad. Spinosad is a natural substance made by a soil bacterium that can be toxic to insects. It is a mixture of two abcterium called spinosyn A and spinosyn D. It is can be used to control a wide variety of insect pests. But always, as a last resort, reduced- risk pesticides may need to be used if other tactics have not been adequately effective, and with care to minimize risks.</span> </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl5H3umficujoE7z2RG6FTz99fXwZRZqNAlshocLUq16685AOyAdJWQbwWrj6HTA7lSjwrFVC7aXtjvYh3v25E-dY0_iF4hFfuu1EvXm4U3L2tiMHspVG_5aRzmMKqUIWwIDU-eBzHeION/s1600/Apple_Growth_Stages_Spray_Guide_Page_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1228" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl5H3umficujoE7z2RG6FTz99fXwZRZqNAlshocLUq16685AOyAdJWQbwWrj6HTA7lSjwrFVC7aXtjvYh3v25E-dY0_iF4hFfuu1EvXm4U3L2tiMHspVG_5aRzmMKqUIWwIDU-eBzHeION/s200/Apple_Growth_Stages_Spray_Guide_Page_1.jpg" width="153" /></a><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-family: "constantia" , "georgia" , "palatino"; font-size: large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">As the growing season approaches, now is the time to determine what pest problems you had last season, or may have this season, and what the best approach is to handle those problems. As the various stages of tree growth develop, so does the growth of pests. T</span></span><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">he "<a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/managing_pests_home_fruit_plantings.pdf" target="_blank">Managing Pests in Home Fruit Plantings</a>" guide will provide for you a chart of the growth cycles of the tree and a spray guide chart to let you know what pests are prevalent during those growth stages. The "Spray Guide" will give you a list of environmentally friendly products you might need to use against those pests as a last resort. Remember, spray chemicals is a last resort, but is also necessary if bio-controls are not working on your pests.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font: 13px "constantia" , "georgia" , "palatino";"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font: 13px "constantia" , "georgia" , "palatino";"> </span></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOle3InSRIyn6ePjutCjjwWyTtzf94B9uzUJef2ySRsMYA6eJO1pjwreQlv2u5q3qQZWiHkIPkrow1bUXn-BZ8uiqg21LeHxLtcYRO9cCEtVM417K51KSA2RQ3hFi2fusgtWGqkR11pMW/s1600/Apple_Growth_Stages_Spray_Guide_Page_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1331" data-original-width="1029" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOle3InSRIyn6ePjutCjjwWyTtzf94B9uzUJef2ySRsMYA6eJO1pjwreQlv2u5q3qQZWiHkIPkrow1bUXn-BZ8uiqg21LeHxLtcYRO9cCEtVM417K51KSA2RQ3hFi2fusgtWGqkR11pMW/s200/Apple_Growth_Stages_Spray_Guide_Page_2.jpg" width="154" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="cfont" data-size="13" style="color: #003300; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">The benefits of implementing biointensive IPM include reduced chemical input costs, reduced environmental impacts, and more effective and sustainable pest management. An ecology-based IPM has the potential of decreasing inputs of natural chemicals and synthetic chemicals - all of which are energy intensive and increasingly costly in terms of financial and environmental impact. All these efforts make it possible for you to apply chemical controls only a few times each season when they are truly required. And we can recommend the use the most environmentally friendly materials available in our <a href="http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" target="_blank">Nursery Center. </a> </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">I hope you find this post useful! As always, if you have any questions contact me anytime via comments or through our <a href="https://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/homorchardpestmanage.html" rel="tag" target="_blank" title="Contact Me">web site</a>! </span></span></div>
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Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-6743235233925224952019-07-27T16:58:00.000-05:002019-07-27T17:04:30.977-05:00Second Generation Codling Moth Beginning to Emerge<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijae7bVzwwqnOy59pppFEaMPVel8hPphQf7nBIZUgx_LivEX2D-PqMOaeFUgEANNqlbYsnOwsac9X0WyAGDhSY-O_eMtCtSNDzcDnko1gk_S2Sg5nBuL8D8b6uDAoMIcODaZ6xtIKk21Qw/s1600/cm_instar.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" Codling Moth Instar" border="0" data-original-height="172" data-original-width="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijae7bVzwwqnOy59pppFEaMPVel8hPphQf7nBIZUgx_LivEX2D-PqMOaeFUgEANNqlbYsnOwsac9X0WyAGDhSY-O_eMtCtSNDzcDnko1gk_S2Sg5nBuL8D8b6uDAoMIcODaZ6xtIKk21Qw/s1600/cm_instar.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;">As I have mentioned in previous posts, of all the flying pests we encounter in the upper Midwest, codling moth is one of the insect pests needing to be controlled the most. Even though codling moth flight began back on June 7 (our biofix date), that first generation of eggs that made it through the first spray protocols have hatched, gone through their 5 instar phases and are now beginning to fly as adult moths. The first sustained flight of the second generation usually begins at 1200 to 1250 and today we are at 1012DD since that first biofix of June 7, 2019.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;">Armed with a biofix of June 7, and by calculating the degree days from that biofix date, we can now begin our countdown for our first spray against the "proverbial worm in the apple" for second generation........if we have a second generation that is above our threshold and need to do a spray at all! If you only have a few trees, your threshold for damage might be much lower than ours here at the orchard with over 17,000 trees. If you can withstand only a few damaged apples, then you may not need to spray at all. But if your damage is significant, then your choice may be a needed spray. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Codling Moth ModelAAcs/uD6dHK6u7UAqRWkJBNK3cKnLhX2_OkeaQCLcBGAs/s400/screenshot-newa.cornell.edu-2019.07.27-16-14-31.png"" border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="905" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji3hmFJQkWzE-3eJ-UR4V0vizwM2XJypEG6bvhxEbyybEDv1rAvkHh_9yjiJtnXMvxz5EburtL3QYukLxideVSzt1SuKJsdftit290ylRkzuI4_eV8TPoRSqgCpsJ5zDr-agrr0eZyC9OJ/s400/screenshot-newa.cornell.edu-2019.07.27-16-14-31.png" title="Current Codling Moth Model" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Codling Moth Model</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;">To review, degree-days (DD) are determined by use of the average temperature for a day (maximum temperature + minimum temperature/2) and subtracting it from the base temperature at which the insect does not develop. For the codling moth a base temperature of 50°F is used. (Temperatures above 88°F are upper thresholds for codling moth activity and should not be included in degree day accounting.) As an example, a day when the high temperature was 80°F and the low temperature was 60°F, then 20 degree days would accumulate [(80 + 60/2)- 50]. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> <span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"> </span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Here is a </span></span><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><a href="http://royaloakfarmorchard.com/pdf/CM_GDD_Model.pdf" target="_blank">Detailed Growing Degree <span style="color: #274e13;">D</span>ay Model for Codling Moth</a>. Following the model, we know that at 1000 degree days after the biofix date the first generation of codling mot end their flight. At about 1250 DD after that first biofix, the second generation eggs may begin to hatch. Codling moths begin to lay those eggs around 105oDD and those eggs begin to hatch at about 1250 degree days after that first biofix. It is this information that aids in the timing of necessary sprays for 2nd generation codling moth so they do not damage fruit. Growers wishing to time sprays based on egg development and hatch should make an application of an insecticide at 1250 DD (base 50 degrees F) after the first sustained capture of males in the sex pheromone traps. If you have no way of monitoring these temperatures for degree days, I anticipate, given the projected forecast for the next week, that a spray date should be around August 3 to August 5. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></u> <u><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;">CONTROL</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></u><br />
<u><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></u> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;">There are only a very limited number of spray products on the home garden/ consumer market that are available for managing codling moth in home orchards, as I have mentioned in previous posts. All of these require repeated application, timed for periods when eggs are being laid and are hatching, and thorough coverage of fruit. Let's review these again.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><b>Spinosad.</b> Spinosad is a naturally derived material, produced by soil microbes (active ingredient, spinosyns). Several formulations are available, most of which are allowed to be used in Certified Organic production. Combination with horticultural oil is often useful in increasing control and fruit coverage. Applications should be made at 10-14 day intervals during periods when eggs are hatching. Effects of spinosad on natural enemies of fruit-infesting insects generally are minimal, although some are susceptible. <br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfU91ziaGD2fJ-yYoFe03ufHlUbcDvQkCnVBepdsn9A7dLa8LildN9i766kDr84bFVregL6j_iL0shPZGKTVzk2HIV7Inlyl151OrayagTbvToJPCAQT5U8WJjl6rKWLSH9g9bMneWTKA/s1600/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="105" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfU91ziaGD2fJ-yYoFe03ufHlUbcDvQkCnVBepdsn9A7dLa8LildN9i766kDr84bFVregL6j_iL0shPZGKTVzk2HIV7Inlyl151OrayagTbvToJPCAQT5U8WJjl6rKWLSH9g9bMneWTKA/s200/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" width="90" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #4b4d52;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><b>Acetamiprid. </b></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: #274e13;">Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer. This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact, translaminar insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray. Translaminar insecticides are absorbed by leaves and can move through the leaf to the opposite surface they contact, but are not truly systemic and do not move throughout the plant. Acetamiprid acts on a broad spectrum of insects, including aphids, thrips, plum curculio, apple maggot and Lepidoptera, especially codling moth. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">For additional information, see the following fact sheets which are available from local university extension services:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y" target="_blank" title="http://nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets/treefruit/pests/cm/cm.asp">https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/43086/codling-moth-FS-NYSIPM.pdf</a></span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth" target="_blank" title="http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth">http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-fruit/insects-mites/factsheets/codling-moth</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span>Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4647220795740564893.post-62991161003853140462019-07-10T13:19:00.000-05:002019-07-10T13:19:53.426-05:00Japanese Beetle Has Finally Arrived<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8bBTzwKu4IsRBPu98Z_3o8IVwY1PHg2Q0IznFVtkfgJNlMUnInbnxu39g6r8ci63XnPRkm-WlfNDt-HU0YZ4QKFm5ihfQErZrdWGP7pHmApP41eZzYwNJ0CQoMOCkd99dNfXpVC7sk4T/s1600/japanese_beetle_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1342" data-original-width="1230" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8bBTzwKu4IsRBPu98Z_3o8IVwY1PHg2Q0IznFVtkfgJNlMUnInbnxu39g6r8ci63XnPRkm-WlfNDt-HU0YZ4QKFm5ihfQErZrdWGP7pHmApP41eZzYwNJ0CQoMOCkd99dNfXpVC7sk4T/s320/japanese_beetle_03.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Japanese Beetle emergence has begun here in Northern Illinois. I noticed the first beetles on Monday and today they were in full view on our Honeycrisp trees (Figure 1). Due to the large amount of carbohydrates produced by the Honeycrisp trees, which is what makes the variety so sweet, the Japanese Beetle is seemingly attracted to it just like we are! Honeycrisp seem to be the first leaves that attract them and then they move on to raspberries and several other berry varieties. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <u>Monitoring for Japanese Beetle</u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the soil and live from 30 to 45 days feeding on plants over a four-to-six-week period. The adults produce aggregation pheromones that attract individuals (both males and females) to the same feeding location. Adults can fly up to five miles to locate a feeding site; however, they tend to fly only short distances to feed and lay eggs. The adult beetles normally emerge during the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out that suitable food , like Honeycrisp, and begin to feed. These early arrivals then begin to release that aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults. Newly emerged females also release a sex pheromone that attracts males. After feeding and mating for a day or two, the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females lay 1 to 5 eggs before returning to plants to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. Most of the eggs are laid by mid-August though adults may be found until the first frost. The eggs hatch in 8 to 14 days and the first instar larvae dig to the soil surface to feed on roots and organic material. The first instars shed their skin (molt) in 17 to 25 days. The second instars take 18 to 45 days to mature and molt again. Most of the grubs are in the third instar by late September and by October they dig deeper into the soil to overwinter. The grubs return to thesurface in the spring as the soil temperature warms, usually in mid-April. The grubs continue their development and form a pupa in an earthen cell 1 to 3 inches in the soil. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPtORnD2CAJGXm_lwE0Ff9X_i2hIAu7L3pFUeyBUBv0W1uL_JpyVt2m-3XIexfLo2wuraqUXY4DgtbrPHY5bnttn6zQezuL5zP1x38YpEfr0sUnPqFuX4jmSIRkrPeoqZjjfy_bDzb6C4/s1600/japanese_beetle_damage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="684" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPtORnD2CAJGXm_lwE0Ff9X_i2hIAu7L3pFUeyBUBv0W1uL_JpyVt2m-3XIexfLo2wuraqUXY4DgtbrPHY5bnttn6zQezuL5zP1x38YpEfr0sUnPqFuX4jmSIRkrPeoqZjjfy_bDzb6C4/s320/japanese_beetle_damage.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Figure 2.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">When you see those first few beetles, that is the time to begin you plan of attack. Those first few beetles are the food source scouts that will emit the aggregation pheromone letting other beetles know that a feast is on! The Japanese beetle adults feed through the upper leaf surface (epidermis) and leaf center (mesophyll), leaving the lower epidermis intact. Adults usually avoid feeding on tissue between leaf veins, resulting in leaves appearing lace-like or skeletonized (Figure 2). Controlling those first few beetles can give you a head start on stopping the feeding/mating cycle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <u>Control for Japanese Beetle</u></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">There are some control options for the adult life stage One is physical removal and/or trapping of adults: Removing beetles by hand, or trapping, may provide adequate protection for small plantings when beetle numbers are low. However, Japanese beetle adults are capable of migrating from other areas, and the presence of beetles on or near a plant will attract more beetles. Consequently, use of Japanese beetle traps often attracts more beetles, and results in subsequent damage to plants. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjypm-9Z8G8cBfQLcv7zlr6kgMWar-LPNZYcovD-Jw6vWML6H96NSmR-GxePnisgBMyiTKt8uQwJ6iHUMEk0JQAnYJEIWzgy34DUBHRSGSxcvBbHYAxuze5vTir45ETBSiwZ524krm5-Mso/s1600/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjypm-9Z8G8cBfQLcv7zlr6kgMWar-LPNZYcovD-Jw6vWML6H96NSmR-GxePnisgBMyiTKt8uQwJ6iHUMEk0JQAnYJEIWzgy34DUBHRSGSxcvBbHYAxuze5vTir45ETBSiwZ524krm5-Mso/s1600/ortho_ffv_insect_killer_rtu_std.png" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Figure 3.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The other alternative is chemical control of adults: Several insecticides are labeled for use against adult Japanese beetles. Always follow label directions. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Typically, this may entail 2 treatments during the peak beetle flight.
Homeowners should make their first application before damage becomes
intolerable and beetles are still abundant. The need for repeated
applications can be curtailed by inspecting plants for additional beetle
damage prior to applying a second treatment. Neem products containing
Azadirachtin can be effective repellents that can reduce defoliation
when applied regularly (but no more than weekly) during beetle flight. Apply before defoliation becomes intolerable. In years when beetle
populations are very high, noticeable defoliation may occur because
adults will consume a small amount of insecticide tainted leaves before
they are killed. Treat foliage and flowers thoroughly. For optimal control, apply in the late afternoon when beetles are most active. Several other insecticides can be used for Japanese beetle control including those used for codling moth and apple maggot control like acetamaprid. There are others like Sevin, but I do not recommend the use of Sevin since it is toxic to bees and to beneficial insects. Acetamiprid is a soft, conventional control and is available as Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer (Figure 3). This is a ready to use product that contains .006% acetamiprid, a synthetic organic compound of the family of chemicals that acts as neonicotinoid insecticides. Acetamiprid is a contact insecticide for sucking-type insects and can be applied as a foliar spray or a soil treatment. When sprayed in the evening at sunset, it will not harm bees or other beneficial insects. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">If you do choose to use chemical controls make sure that the plant you are applying to is listed on the label as well as Japanese Beetles. If controlling Japanese Beetles on food crops such brambles or apples – make sure to follow the harvest-restriction date on the label. Always READ and FOLLOW the label and do not apply at rates higher than listed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author assumes no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations. </span></span></div>
Dennis Norton @ Royal Oak Farm Orchardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02813686456619915367noreply@blogger.com0